Renée’s Talks Foot Care and How to Prevent Dry, Cracked Heels

For almost as long as I can remember, I’ve had an issue with dry, cracked heels. (I’m pretty sure I inherited them from my mom!) Because of this, I’ve always tried to be meticulous about a good foot-care routine. But a few years ago, I realized I was going about it all wrong.

The remedy for cracked heels used to be all about constantly trying to remove dry skin. I used to use something called a Credo blade, which I think is actually illegal in most states now (yikes!). It was literally a giant blade I would use to shave off my calluses and I would remove way too much skin and my feet got so sensitive it was hard to walk sometimes! Needless to say, it didn’t lead to the best results.

Thankfully, I’ve come a long way and have figured out how to keep my heels smooth and soft, all year round. Keep reading to learn my two main remedies for cracked heels plus a few more tips to keep your feet looking their best!

My Two Simple Tricks for Healing and Preventing Cracked Heels

I was getting a pedicure a few years back and offhandedly mentioned that my heels had been cracking so much lately, despite the fact that I had been regularly buffing them. “You should try wearing socks as often as you can,” the pedicurist replied. “It helps your feet hold on to moisture.”

Of course, the more I thought about it, the more it made sense. Feet don’t really have oil glands the way the skin on the rest of the body does, so it’s very difficult for them to hold moisture on their own. Wearing socks is kind of a similar concept to using a facial oil—you’re creating a barrier that allows a moist environment to exist underneath by making it harder for water to escape. 

First, I started wearing socks around the house as often as possible, and I definitely noticed a difference. Pro tip? Be sure to wear socks as much as you can during summer as well as winter. People usually associate dry, cracked heels with winter, which can definitely be the case, but I’ve found it’s actually worse for me in summer because I’m always barefoot or in sandals. Now I always wear socks when I’m not out and about. (I actually prefer men’s socks because they’re thicker and roomier, I just find them more comfortable.)

So, wearing socks helped, but because my heels had already been so dry and cracked to begin with, I needed to step it up a notch to actually repair them. I started slathering Aquaphor ointment before bed and sleeping in socks at least four nights a week. After six weeks, I was shocked at how much my feet were transformed. I now do this twice a week for maintenance and honestly, I barely have to buff my feet anymore because there is very little dead skin. What can I say, sometimes the simplest solutions are the best ones!

The Best Way to Remove Dry Skin From Your Feet

While keeping your feet consistently moisturized is arguably the most important aspect of a foot care routine, you still want to make sure you’re exfoliating once in a while to remove dry skin. After all, if you keep trying to moisturize dry, expired cells, you won’t get very far. 

Since the skin on the heels is so thick, I’ve found that scrubs really aren’t anywhere near strong enough. I do believe physical exfoliation (manually removing dead skin) is the best way to go, but it needs to be more of a buffing or sanding motion done with a tool. Personally, I like this traditional callus remover because it works well and is the one they use on me during pedicures. If you want something more gentle, this foot file gently rolls over the skin to buff off calluses. Either way, be sure to remove the skin after it’s been softened by a shower, bath, or foot soak.

Personally, I’m not a huge fan of exfoliating acids on the feet simply because they have to be very strong in order to work. I have tried acid products like Baby Foot, but I never found they made much of a difference when it came to my heels. That said, I know some people swear by it so if you’re interested, it’s worth a shot!

Try an Exfoliating Acid On Your Cuticles

I do love using an exfoliating acid, like my Smoothing Body Serum, on my cuticles once in a while. I apply a little on my toes then add moisturizer, and it keeps them looking fresh. It also prevents me from having to use cuticle nippers, which can leave your cuticle looking a little messy by causing ragged edges. 

Take a Break From Polish

My toenails are painted pretty much all summer long, so come winter I like to give them a bit of a break. By this point, my nails are pretty dry and have a bit of a white-ish tint to them. In addition to giving them a break from polish, I like to revitalize them by extending my Aquaphor onto the nails and massaging it in a little bit. I’ll top it off with an oil for extra nourishment (I like to use my own since it has a blend of 12 oils rich in vitamins and omega fatty acids that are perfect for replenishing brittle nails).

So there you have it, my straightforward guide to soft, smooth heels and feet! This is a great time of year to get a head start and have your feet in great condition once sandal season rolls around again.

Next, learn how to protect your hands from four main signs of aging.

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Could Tap Water be Causing Your Dryness, Sensitivity, or Clogged Pores?

If you’ve ever wondered whether or not tap water is bad for your skin, you’re not alone. The answer isn’t as simple as “yes” or “no,” but depending on where you live, it can potentially lead to dryness, irritation, and even clogged pores.

I’ve seen firsthand how the quality of tap water can affect people’s skin. I had a client who reached out to me after moving to LA, telling me her rosacea was worse than ever and that she was suddenly experiencing an influx of clogged pores. She also mentioned feeling like there was a film or residue on her skin, saying it seemed like serums she’d once loved suddenly weren’t as effective. After asking some questions to see if anything else significant in her routine or lifestyle had changed, I determined it was probably the change in the tap water causing her skin issues. Sure enough, she told me that every time she went back home to Michigan, her skin would improve. It became softer and less irritated almost immediately, and the film on her skin seemed to disappear. 

In this post, I’ll explain what could’ve led to this, how and why tap water can affect your skin, and what you can do about it. Let’s dive in! 

What’s Actually in Our Tap Water, and Can It Cause Skin Problems?

For the sake of this post, I want to clarify that when I say “tap water,” I’ll be referring to municipal water. A majority of people in the U.S. have access to municipal water, which is provided by a city or town and has been treated to be more consumer-friendly. This could mean increasing or decreasing concentrations of certain minerals, adding fluorine, and “cleaning” the water to reduce harmful bacteria and other contaminants.

Minerals (Sodium, Calcium, and Magnesium)

When people talk about how tap water affects our skin, they usually focus on the minerals it contains. The three minerals you’re most likely to find in tap water are sodium, calcium, and magnesium. Additionally, copper, iron, potassium, and zinc might be found in trace amounts. 

It’s true that the minerals in tap water can lead to skin problems, but not for the reasons you might suspect. I spoke to Valerie George, a cosmetic chemist and friend of mine, to get the low-down. Valerie explained that the minerals themselves are fairly harmless (and can even be beneficial in some cases), but the real issue arises when minerals in tap water interact with the surfactants in our cleansers or bar soaps (which is one reason I don’t recommend washing your face with bar soap, btw). 

Surfactants are cleansing agents that attract dirt and oil, lifting them from the surface of our skin. Now, this is where it gets a little complicated. According to Valerie, many of the surfactants used in cleansers or soaps have a negative ionic charge. The minerals in our tap water, on the other hand, have a positive charge. This means they really want to bind to something negatively charged, making them very attracted to surfactants. Once the minerals attach to surfactants, they basically combine to create soap scum. I’m sure you’ve seen the buildup in your tubs or sinks and inside your faucets, but this same residue can be deposited onto your skin (pretty gross, I know). Fun fact, this is one of the reasons cosmetic chemists would never use tap water when formulating skincare products—they use either distilled or reverse osmosis water.

How Does Buildup from Minerals Affect Skin? 

The residue deposited on your skin can ultimately create a film that upsets the balance of skin in more ways than one, leading to the following skin issues:

  • Disrupted moisture barrier
  • Dryness and dehydration
  • Irritation and sensitivity
  • Rough-feeling skin
  • Clogged pores

Having a film on the skin disrupts its barrier function because it prevents dry, expired skin cells from being shed so that healthy new skin cells can take their place. It also prevents moisturizers and other products from being properly absorbed. All of this can lead to increased dryness, irritation, and rough-feeling skin. If enough residue builds up, it can even settle inside your pores and create a blockage. 

pH Value

The pH value of tap water can vary a lot depending on where you are. In the U.S., tap water usually has a pH between 4 and 7. For reference, the skin on our face has a pH range between 4.7 and 5. The good news is this doesn’t usually have much of a negative effect on our skin—skin is resilient and really good at balancing itself, so it will learn to adjust to the pH of your tap water.

That said, if you’re traveling or just moved to a new city where the pH of tap water is different from what you’re used to, it can throw your skin for a loop while it adjusts. I had another client a few years back who told me her skin had freaked out while she was traveling in London. It became very rough, textured, and irritated, almost overnight. In Europe, tap water can have a pH as high as 8, so I believe her skin was reacting to this sudden change. A pharmacist confirmed this when she went looking for solutions, and they told her it’s not uncommon for people visiting London to have this experience!

How to Figure Out if Tap Water is Causing Your Skin Problems

I want to preface this by saying that unless you have a condition (such as eczema or rosacea) that results in a genetically compromised barrier, you should be just fine washing your face with tap water. Most people with healthy skin can mitigate its potentially negative effects with a good skincare routine (more on this soon). 

That said, if you strongly suspect your tap water could be causing issues with your skin, the best way to investigate this is to go on a “tap water detox.” Without changing anything else in your routine, try washing your face with distilled water for a week or two to see if your skin improves. The reason I recommend distilled water specifically is that it’s completely devoid of minerals, so it won’t react with the cleansing agents in your face wash to create that residue. The good news is you can usually find it for less than a dollar a gallon at your local grocery store!

How to Prevent Tap Water from Harming Your Skin

Use an Alcohol-Free Toner After Cleansing

My number one tip for removing buildup caused by tap water is to use an alcohol-free toner after cleansing, and this is something I think everyone should be doing. Start by making sure you’ve thoroughly rinsed off your cleanser, then saturate a toning cloth (or cotton round) with a toner for your skin type and gently wipe it across your face and neck. The wiping action will help physically remove residue left behind by your tap water. Having your toning cloth saturated with toner will help it glide across the skin and ensure that it picks up the maximum amount of residue. Additionally, I love using a toner after cleansing because it gives the skin an instant shot of hydration in addition to these other benefits.

Remove Your Cleanser With a Washcloth

Another way to physically remove buildup from your skin is to remove your cleanser with a baby washcloth. I recommend people do this if they’ve been wearing heavy makeup or lots of sunscreen and need to add a little extra oomph to the cleansing process. While using a washcloth is a great way to get your skin clean, it does count as a form of physical exfoliation so I wouldn’t recommend doing it twice a day (once a day could even be too much for some). Just tread carefully and pull back if you start to feel irritation. 

Use Distilled Water to Wash Your Face

Again, I want to reiterate that most people won’t need to do this and that tap water is just fine for the majority of those with healthy skin when you use a toner after cleansing. Using distilled water to wash your face is something I would recommend under two circumstances. The first is that you have an underlying condition that makes your skin sensitive, and you’ve struggled to get that condition under control. (I did have a client I used to work with who started washing her face with distilled water because of her severe eczema, and it definitely helped her to an extent.) The second is that you live somewhere where tap water isn’t safe due to environmental or infrastructure concerns. 

As I mentioned, distilled water is devoid of minerals so it won’t react with the surfactants in your soaps and cleansers. 

Look into Water Softeners or Filters

Finally, you can look into a water softening system or even filters for your showerhead, faucet, etc. These options aren’t always cheap, and individual filters especially can be quite cumbersome, so I wouldn’t recommend investing in either of these unless it’s something you were already considering for other reasons. Also, keep in mind that both of these options will reduce the mineral content of your water but won’t take it down to zero, so while you may see an improvement you’re not totally eliminating the problem.

The Bottom Line

While the minerals found in our tap water aren’t harmful, they can react with the cleansing agents in our soaps and cleansers to essentially create a soap scum residue. Unless properly removed, this residue can build up on our skin causing dryness, irritation, rough skin, and even clogged pores. Most people can mitigate this by properly rinsing after cleansing and then wiping an alcohol-free toner across the face and neck. If you have very sensitive skin caused by a condition such as eczema or rosacea, you may need to take it a step further and try washing your face with distilled water. Since distilled water is devoid of minerals, it won’t leave a residue.

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10 Skincare Trends Renée Predicts Will Be Everywhere in 2022

At the beginning of each year, I share my predictions for the biggest upcoming trends in skin care. Keep reading to learn what I think will be the top 10 trends of 2022 (and what I think of them!).

1. Products Focused on Barrier Repair

Barrier repair was a trend I predicted would take off in 2021, and this prediction definitely came true. It seems like just a few years ago, not many people were even aware of the concept of the skin’s protective moisture barrier. Now, most people understand that a damaged barrier can contribute to almost every skin concern, from acne to sensitivity. If 2021 was the year of barrier education, this year we’ll see more products that cater to strengthening and repairing your skin’s moisture barrier. 

It’s not that barrier-boosting products didn’t already exist, but I think the marketing will shift so that they’re labeled as such. Most of the ingredients that can help fortify your barrier are oil-based, so barrier-repairing products have traditionally been marketed to people with dry skin types. Anyone’s barrier can be compromised, though, so I think we’ll start to see more nuanced formulas that also cater to those with combination or oily skin types (I’m actually working on a product like this myself, stay tuned!).

2. Sensitive Skin Care

Fragrance-free, allergen-free, essential-oil-free—whatever you call it, we’ve been seeing an increase in products geared toward sensitive skin, and I definitely think this trend will continue to grow. I think it also ties into the trend of barrier repair somewhat. 

For a long time, skin care was all about active ingredients. Everyone was trying to use as many as they could, as often as possible, be it vitamin C, retinol, or exfoliating acids. I definitely think this contributed to a bit of an epidemic of damaged barriers—people were just overdoing it. Now, as I mentioned, people really understand how important it is to have a strong foundation in the form of a healthy barrier. This has led to them seeking out gentler products that nourish the skin.

3. Reusable Skincare Accessories

As companies work to find new ways to be more sustainable and minimize waste, we’ll start seeing more of them put out reusable accessories. Refillable packaging has already been on the rise, but I’m noticing more things like washable “cotton rounds” and reusable face and eye masks. I’m definitely a fan of this and think it’s an innovative category. I’ve never really liked traditional, single-use sheet or eye masks, so I think it’s cool to have reusable ones that enhance the effects of your serums and other skin treatments.

4. Sophisticated Body-Care Routines

Skin care isn’t just for the face! Too often, we neglect the skin on our bodies while caring meticulously for our faces. Over time, this begins to show and things end up looking uneven. I can always tell, for example, when someone hasn’t been extending their skincare routine to their neck and chest. Another part of the body that often gives away someone’s age is the hands, which a lot of us don’t think to protect despite how exposed they are (here’s what I recommend for younger-looking hands). 

This year, we’ll continue to see more sophisticated body care products that use the same ingredients as products you’d use for your face, including exfoliating acids, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. Want to know more? Read about my winter body care routine that keeps dry skin at bay. 

5. “Tweakments” (Like Lip Filler)

Minimally invasive cosmetic procedures, such as injectables or threading, have been skyrocketing in popularity, and I don’t see them slowing down any time soon. These treatments, sometimes dubbed “tweakments” since they’re considered less invasive or extreme than traditional cosmetic surgery, are also being sought out by younger and younger audiences. 

Moving forward, I think we’ll continue to see a rise in people getting these procedures to “tweak” certain aspects of their appearance. Of course, no procedure seems to be as popular as lip filler, and this will probably be the case for quite some time. 

I spoke to Dr. Sam Lam, a plastic surgeon in Dallas, to get his take on lip filler (especially people getting it at such a young age).

“Lip fillers are fantastic and problematic at the same time,” says Dr. Lam. “First and foremost, they’re way overdone—everyone is getting lips filled. Lips are typically the last thing I rejuvenate in older patients. I focus more on the eyes, jawline, and lines around the mouth. If you start with lips, even if they’re well-designed, the lips will end up looking younger than the rest of the face.” 

“Younger patients are also getting their lips filled beyond the natural borders,” he added, “but I won’t do this for people. I believe it can quickly become too much. Women think the filler doesn’t stay so they keep on getting their lips filled, but it stays! They have done studies where 8 years later after a single syringe by MRI standards the product is still there. So this can definitely be an issue when someone starts young with lip filler because they end up becoming over-filled.” 

6. Mushroom Ingredients

I work very closely with talented cosmetic chemists in order to formulate products, and they’ve been telling me that some of the most in-demand ingredients right now are mushroom extracts. There are, of course, different types of mushroom extracts, but almost all of them boast impressive anti-inflammatory capabilities. My personal favorite (and the one I formulate with) is silver ear mushroom, also known as Tremella fuciformis. This ingredient has been shown to strengthen the skin’s immune system, soothe irritation, and provide hydration.

7. Skin Supplements

Taking good care of your body and living a healthy lifestyle can undoubtedly improve the overall appearance of your skin. Companies are embracing this philosophy and starting to add skincare supplements to their lines, and I think we’ll see more of this in 2022. Curious whether or not they really work? Read my take on which skincare supplements might actually make a difference

8. Maskne Solutions

Ah, maskne. An issue we’d all hoped would be in our rearview mirrors by now. Unfortunately, the need for masks hasn’t abated, and neither have the skin issues that accompany mask-wearing. In 2022, I think we’ll continue to see innovation in this area as companies try to come up with solutions for this unique concern. We’ve already seen silk masks meant to minimize friction as well as “anti-acne” masks infused with things like copper and silver to repel microbes. On the other hand, some have gone the skin care route with products meant to minimize mask-related acne. I actually launched this Rapid Response Maskne Spray, which uses the same hero ingredients to combat breakouts as the rest of my rapid response collection. I’ve also seen sprays targeting the irritation and inflammation associated with mask-wearing, and I think we can expect to see more products like that this year.

Learn how to manage maskne and irritation caused by face masks.

9. Cleansing Balms

Cleansing balms became very popular when K-beauty first took hold in the U.S., and they seem to be making a resurgence. My hope for this newer generation of cleansing balms is that the formulas become more sophisticated to improve rinsability. Let me explain. Traditional cleansing balms are made up entirely of oils and while oils are great for breaking down makeup and sunscreen, they’re really difficult to rinse off the skin since they repel water. This can leave a film on the skin, which makes it difficult for your other skincare products to penetrate. 

This is why I’m more partial to transforming cleansers that start as a traditional balm consistency but emulsify once you add water. They’re still great for removing makeup and sunscreen while being much easier to rinse off the skin. (Hint: you may see a product like this from my line this year! Sign up for text messages to be the first to receive new product updates.)

10. Essences

Another K-beauty inspired trend, I’m noticing a rise in the popularity of essences (and couldn’t be more thrilled about it!). Essentially, I consider an essence to be a serum-infused toner. I’m a huge proponent of toners thanks to their ability to remove mineral build-up from tap water and instantly hydrate the skin. Infusing a toner with targeted ingredients can give you additional benefits above and beyond just hydration, so it’s a great step to have in your routine. I’ve always considered this toner from my line to be more of an essence, and it’s a fan-favorite thanks to its silky texture and skin-plumping abilities. 

Honorable Mention: Celebrity Skincare Lines

This was a trend I predicted last year, and you can read more about my thoughts on why having a celebrity behind a brand isn’t necessarily a vote of confidence in my eyes. Essentially, celebrities are used as the face of a product line because their looks are aspirational to people, but their looks are never the result of the skincare line they’re promoting. For instance, when Jlo launched her line, I thought, “That’s great, but these products have only existed for a few months and I want to know what she’s been doing for the last 30 years!” Also, keep in mind that it’s almost never just skin care that keeps celebs looking the way they do—there are usually a lot of professional treatments going on behind the scenes as well. All in all, I think celebrity skincare brands are a little misleading. I also think people are starting to feel the fatigue since we saw SO many of them launch this past year, and now that this particular market is so saturated I believe we’ll see a decline in 2022. 

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From the Lab: How Are Your Products Tested to Ensure Safety?

Product safety is a huge topic of conversation among beauty consumers. And listen, I get it— there are so many products out there, it can be hard to understand how they’re all regulated. In addition, recent reports of the contaminant benzene being found in some sunscreen threw people for a loop.

In this post, I want to take some time to explain how your products are regulated, how they’re tested, and why you can ultimately rest assured knowing people are going to great lengths to ensure what you put on your skin is safe.  

How the FDA Regulates Cosmetics

There’s a lot of confusion about how the FDA is involved in overseeing the cosmetics industry. When it comes to cosmetics, the FDA focuses on regulation versus approval. This means that a cosmetic product doesn’t have to be pre-approved by the FDA before it’s brought to market, but it does have to comply with FDA laws and guidelines. Ultimately, there are two major criteria a product must meet in order to be sold to consumers:

  1. Packaging claims must be substantiated. Meaning, what it says on the bottle is what has to actually be in the bottle. And, if a product makes certain marketing claims, those have to be substantiated. This is enforced by the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act, which requires your packaging and advertising information to accurately represent your product. 
  2. The product has to be safe. This one is pretty self explanatory—a product can’t be harmful to consumers in any way. This is enforced by the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act, which states products can not be adulterated (contaminated), misbranded (falsely labeled or misleading), and otherwise are compliant with FDA guidelines. 

Aside from these laws, the FDA also has a set of guidelines called Good Manufacturing Practices. These are guidelines that need to be followed when manufacturing a product to make sure they’re safe.

Ultimately, the burden of testing lies with the brand or manufacturer. It’s their responsibility to prove their product meets all of the FDA’s criteria. This does mean a brand needs to know what they’re doing, so I think the ever-growing trend of brand transparency is great. It allows you, as a consumer, to make the best decisions about which companies you buy from.

That said, failure to comply with FDA regulations can result in a recall of a product or very expensive litigation, so understand that companies are very motivated to do the necessary testing so they can back their products. (In Europe, pre-approval is required in order for a product to go to market, and the governing body that approves it absorbs responsibility for any possible litigation.) Additionally, putting out something that hurts customers is bad for business! Most brands, manufacturers, and chemists have good intentions and work diligently to make sure the products they put out are safe. It’s almost unheard of for someone to put a product out without proper safety testing.

Speaking of safety testing, the cosmetics industry in the U.S. has developed a lot of its own standardized testing for proving safety and efficacy. Keep reading for what’s being done to ensure your products meet safety standards.

How Skincare Products are Tested for Safety and Efficacy Before Being Brought to Market

These are tests that can be performed on product formulas to ensure their safety and efficacy. We get our testing done through our trusted lab partners and stay in close communication with them to monitor results and make sure we’re always putting out safe, high-quality products.

Preservative Efficacy Testing (PET)

PET is a one-time test done on cosmetic formulas to prove they can withstand contamination by microorganisms. The product is purposefully contaminated with six common types of microorganisms (three bacteria, fungus, yeast, and mold). A technician then measures the number of microorganisms left in the product over a certain period of time. Ideally, at the end of the test, there would be nearly nothing left. This test is required under the FDA’s Good Manufacturing Practices.

Why It’s Needed

Cosmetics aren’t sterile when they’re produced, and once you take them home you might introduce contamination to the product when you use it or store it in moist conditions (like a bathroom or shower). To make sure harmful organisms don’t grow, preservatives are essential. This is one reason I’m not a fan of green or “clean” beauty, since it often means foregoing a traditional preservative system. 

Microbial Testing

Instead of a one-time test like PET testing, microbial testing is done each time a new batch of product is made. This is to make sure that, before products are sent to retailers or customers, there are no harmful microorganisms. This test is required under the FDA’s Good Manufacturing Practices.

Why It’s Needed

Products can be contaminated during the manufacturing or filling process, and this test ensures they’re safe before being shipped out

Stability Testing 

Stability testing is essentially used to determine the shelf-life of a product. It ensures that, over a certain period of time, the product will look the same (i.e. no shift in color or texture) and that the chemical properties won’t shift. The most common type of stability testing is called “accelerated stability.” Over the course of three months, a product is exposed to several different temperature conditions. Three months of stability in the test translates to two years of stability in the real world, meaning the product will have a two-year shelf life. If it’s a product that’s considered a drug (like sunscreen), this test is used to determine the expiration date.

Why It’s Needed

It’s important to understand the integrity of a product over time. Selling an unstable product means consumers might not be getting what they paid for. This is especially true for active ingredients, like vitamin C or retinol, that might be unstable on their own. They need to be properly stabilized in a formula otherwise they won’t be effective or give consumers the benefits they’re meant to.

Human Repeat Insult Patch Testing (HRIPT)

This test measures whether or not people are likely to experience an allergic reaction or irritation from a product. Subjects with varying skin types have the product applied to the same patch of skin over and over, and someone analyzes their skin each time for possible irritation. For an extra fee, a dermatologist can review the data to get their stamp of approval. This allows a brand to market the product as “dermatologist tested” or “dermatologist approved.” The HRIPT test is also required if you want to label the product as hypoallergenic. 

As you can see, a lot of the claims that come from this test have to do with marketing. Learn more about marketing terms in skincare and what they actually mean.

Why It’s Needed

Though this test isn’t required, it’s a good idea if a brand wants to minimize the risk of an allergic reaction for their consumers. As I mentioned, it’s also necessary if they want to make certain claims about their product in regards to sensitive skin. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as “zero risk,” and a product might cause irritation for certain consumers even if it’s been through HRIPT. Again, this test simply minimizes the risk. 

Claims Testing

A “claim” is what a company says a product does. This may seem obvious, but it’s important because of the FDA law requiring that products live up to their claims. This type of testing is more about efficacy than safety, and the exact type of test or study depends on the claim being made. For example, if a product claims to improve dark under-eyes, they need to substantiate that. 

Why It’s Needed

Failure to substantiate product claims violates FDA guidelines and can result in a warning, fine, or even litigation. 

Ophthalmologist Testing

This is usually done at a third-party facility that specializes in this type of testing. A product is applied in or around the eye under the supervision of an ophthalmologist. This is how tear-free testing is done on baby shampoo, for example. If a product doesn’t undergo this type of testing, the packaging simply has to carry a warning that says if it gets in your eyes to rinse them thoroughly. 

Testing and Safety of Individual Ingredients

So far we’ve only touched on how cosmetic products are tested, but before that even happens, most of the ingredients themselves have been tested and studied at length. The reality is there aren’t a lot of truly new or groundbreaking ingredients being used in skincare, so the safety data we have for most ingredients goes back decades. 

Ingredients are extensively tested by their manufacturers, and in order to be used in cosmetic products, they have to be vetted through the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Board (CIR). This is a board of independent scientists who review safety studies from both academic and industry sources. They also review toxicology testing and how ingredients are being used in formulas (especially the percentages at which ingredients are used). Toxicology testing isn’t required in the U.S., but some manufacturers will still do it. It is, however, required in the E.U., and the CIR takes the E.U. reviews and recommendations into consideration. In the end, the board assigns each ingredient a safety rating.

As you can see, there’s a lot that goes into ensuring the efficacy and, most importantly, the safety of your products. I hope this post gave you a sense of all the work going on behind the scenes.

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2021 Year in Review — Where We’ve Been and Where We’re Going

Hey friends! Hard to believe 2021 is about to wrap up and that we’re already headed into 2022. Is it just me, or have these past couple of years felt like a bit of a blur? Crazy times!

As some of you already know, I own 100% of my company and have chosen to remain directly direct-to-consumer instead of selling through other retailers. One reason for this is that I want to be able to oversee the production and distribution of our products to maintain quality control. Another reason is that it makes me feel closer to our amazing customers! I love being able to give you all candid insights. So, without further ado, a recap of 2021 (and a sneak peek into 2022). 

2021—Where We’ve Been

Renée Rouleau Skin Care Celebrates 25 Years of Business

This past August, my team and I kicked off the celebration of Renée Rouleau Skin Care’s 25th anniversary with another great annual sale. Twenty-five years in business—I literally can hardly believe it! It’s difficult to put into words how much this milestone means to me. I am truly grateful. 

In 1996, I took a chance and moved to Texas where I didn’t know a single soul. I opened my first spa and started developing my skincare line, along with my proprietary 9 Skin Types. It was scary starting a business in a new place, but looking back on the friends I’ve made, the wonderful clients I’ve met, and the memories I now cherish, I wouldn’t have it any other way.  

My team put together this amazing video to show the history of our company and how I got where I am today.  

Continuing to Expand Our Company’s Philanthropic Branch

Giving back has always been important to me, and there was a lot of need in our community after “Icepocalypse 2021.” For those who don’t know, Texas was hit with record-low temperatures that left many without water or electricity for weeks. During the cold front, there was an urgent need to get people warm and fed. Afterward, many faced expensive home repairs thanks to burst pipes and flooding. 

Renée Rouleau Skin Care made donations during and after the storm in an effort to help our community get back on its feet. Donations were made to Casa Marianella, Austin Area Urban League, Central Texas Food Bank, and Austin EMS Relief. In addition, I personally made donations to a few families in my East Austin community who were particularly affected by the storm and needed help with very costly home repairs. 

In addition to disaster relief, we proudly continued our philanthropic outreach with Tankproof, an organization that teaches underserved children who have limited or no access to a pool how to swim.

We also donated to Asian Americans Advancing Justice in response to the rise in anti-Asian hate crimes.

Finally, I’m so proud to say that we partnered with Beauty Changes Lives to launch the Renée Rouleau Esthetics Scholarship! Two esthetics students were awarded $2,500 each toward their education. The first round of applications is closed, but keep an eye on our Instagram for round two to be announced! 

Completing Our Third Successful “Flovember” 

After Florian—my late husband and our former COO—beat prostate cancer, he and I started something called the “Burpee Challenge.” We did this as part of Movember to raise awareness for men’s health. Our entire team started training for the burpee challenge at the beginning of November, and at the end, we had a friendly competition to see how many we could do. For each burpee completed, the company donated a dollar to the Movember Foundation

After Florian passed away from bile duct cancer five years later, I decided to keep the tradition going and rename it “Flovember” in his honor. COVID forced us to adapt, so instead of doing burpees together everyone on our team chose a way in which to challenge themselves for the month of November. Some walked a certain distance each day, some chose to eat healthier, and I personally decided to work on stretching regularly to keep my muscles and joints strong. I’m so proud of everyone pushing themselves to be just a little healthier! I know Florian is very proud. 

Continuing to Grow Our Team

I’m so grateful for my amazing team, and I’m even more grateful that we’re in a position to continue to hire amazing employees who help us become an even better company! This past year we were fortunate to welcome three new team members:

  • Kaylee, in-house videographer
  • Kaitlyn, content editor 
  • Lexi, in-house esthetician and customer service rep

We’re now at 17 employees, and I love having a small team because it means we all get to know each other and collaborate.

Renée Rouleau Joins TikTok

That’s right, we’re finally on TikTok! In fact, the very first TikTok I filmed debuted on the jumbotron in Times Square—a real pinch-me moment. They say if you can make it in New York, you can make it anywhere!

Continuing to Have Award-Winning Products in Our Line

I created each product in my line to solve certain problems and help people achieve skin that makes them feel confident. When I see reviews or get messages from customers telling me how much our products have changed their skin, I remember why I do what I do and feel truly grateful. To have those products recognized with an award is just the cherry on top!

Here are some of the awards I’m proud to say Renée Rouleau Skin Care won this year:

Putting Out 44 New Blog Posts

I’ve always been about education, so my blog is very near and dear to me. I never want to just sell products to people, I also want to share what I’ve learned so they can better understand how to care for their skin. I think this is so important, especially considering how many options there are when it comes to skincare these days. It’s all about being a more informed consumer!

To get you started, here were the five most popular posts I published this year:

I Was Invited to the Marie Claire Power Trip

The Marie Claire Power Trip is an all-female networking event that’s held once a year, and I was honored to be invited this year. I got to meet so many amazing women including CEOs, executives, founders, and celebrities. It was two days of honest conversation and inspiring speakers that left me feeling re-energized and very excited for what’s to come. 

Our Warehouse Kept Things Running With 99.9% Accuracy

Anyone who’s ordered a package in the past year knows things have been…rocky, to say the least. Our warehouse team worked closely with our carriers to keep things running smoothly and continued to delight our customers with unparalleled speed and accuracy when it came to shipping their orders.

We Launched a New SKU—the Barrier Restoring Kit

After the success of our Rapid Response Detox Kit for breakout control, I wanted to put together a kit for those who experience dryness, redness, or irritation, especially during these winter months. The Barrier Restoring Kit includes three products that give deep hydration and build up your skin’s natural moisture barrier.

2022—Where We’re Going

New Products in the Works

Product development is one of the most exciting parts of my job, and I can’t wait to share everything we’ll be working on in 2022! For now though, here’s a sneak peek.

Right now, I have two products in the final stages of consumer testing and packaging design, and they’ll be launching in 2022. One is a brand new type of cleanser, and the other is a gentle polishing scrub that includes a small amount of exfoliating acids. 

In addition, we’ll be reformulating two of our existing products. Like most businesses, we encountered supply chain issues this past year. We’re making some changes based on this and since I’m always looking for ways to improve, I thought this transitional period would be a good chance to re-evaluate and see if we wanted to update any of our formulas. After weighing all the options, I decided both Total Eye Repair Creme and Triple Berry Smoothing Peel could benefit from a little “facelift.” As many of you know, our triple berry peel has unfortunately been out of stock for a while now because our supplier no longer had access to one of the key ingredients. We’ve been working hard to get it back for you, and you can look forward to a new and improved formula in 2022. 

Launched Text Messaging

It hasn’t officially been announced yet, but we now offer exclusive content via text message! We’ll be ramping this program up throughout the year, but you’ll want to be sure to sign up to receive helpful skin tips directly from me. You’ll also be the first to hear about new product launches and sales.

To sign up, text GLOW to +1 (866) 848-0284.

Subscriptions Launching Soon

You asked, and we listened. We’ll be launching a subscription program on our site this year. This means it’ll be even easier to restock your favorite products before you run out, plus you’ll save a little money!

So that’s some of the things going on with me and my company. I want to thank each and every one of you for another great year. I love being able to share these updates with you and appreciate you being along for the ride. Cheers to what was, what is, and what will be!

The post 2021 Year in Review — Where We’ve Been and Where We’re Going appeared first on Expert Skin Advice from Renee Rouleau.

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How to Perform an At-Home Patch Test to Avoid 3 Possible Skin Reactions

It’s exciting to try a new skincare product. However, if you dive right in without patch testing it first, you could cause a negative reaction. That’s why I always suggest performing an at-home patch test before using a new skincare product—especially if you have extremely sensitive skin.

In this post, I’ll share how I perform an at-home patch test to avoid three possible skin reactions. These include an allergic reaction, sensitivity (irritation), and clogged pores. I’ll also share additional insight from Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a Board-Certifed Dermatologist and Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.

What Is a Patch Test?

Before we talk about how to patch test skincare products, let’s talk about what a patch test is and why it’s necessary. In dermatology, a patch test is a diagnostic test used to determine which ingredients cause an allergic reaction in a patient’s skin.

“Patch testing is a procedure where patches containing different allergy-causing ingredients are applied to the skin to determine which one causes a reaction,” Zeichner says. “Oftentimes, it is difficult to determine which specific ingredient you are sensitive to, so patch testing helps with the detective work. You may not be able to tolerate a product simply because of a single ingredient it contains.”

At-home patch testing is slightly different. It involves applying a small amount of a new product to a specific area of the skin to see if it causes a reaction. This is important since you can rarely tell if a product is compatible with your skin until you try it. The last thing you want is to use it all over your skin and experience a negative reaction. And while traditionally a patch test is used to test for allergies, it can also be used to test for sensitivity and even clogged pores.

Should I Patch Test Every New Skincare Product I Use?

Experts recommended patch testing every new skincare product. However, I realize this is quite cumbersome. Plus, statistically speaking, the risk for an allergic reaction is pretty low. The majority of the population doesn’t have allergies or sensitivities. So, at the very least, I recommend patch testing any product that contains active ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, retinol, and vitamin C. These ingredients are actively working on the skin and are more likely to cause reactions.

With that being said, sometimes there’s no shortcut. If you know you have super sensitive or allergic skin, I recommend patch testing every new skincare product. The last thing you want is to cause a full-blown allergic reaction!

You should also patch test every new skincare product if you know you have an allergy to a specific ingredient, like fragrance. Even if a product is labeled as “fragrance-free,” it can still cause a reaction. That’s because, in the United States, fragrance allergens don’t have to be listed on the label. Plus, many products contain botanical extracts that contain the same potential allergens that fragrances do.

The same goes if you’re allergic to certain preservatives since there may be cross-allergies to other preservatives. Also, in the United States, brands aren’t required to list processing aids and impurities on the product label. In other geographies, like the European Union, brands are typically required to show sub-preservatives.

How Do I Patch Test for an Allergic Reaction?

To patch test for an allergic reaction, apply a small amount of product to the side of the face. I suggest applying it above the jaw or behind the ear. Make sure your skin is clean. This ensures there is no residue or oil impeding contact. It’s typically recommended to leave the product on for 24 hours. Then, observe your skin for another 24 hours. This is because it could take your immune system up to 48 hours to respond to the allergen. It can show up sooner than that, too; it all depends on your immune system and the severity of the allergy.

While 24 hours of contact is the standard, I only patch test new products for that long if they’re supposed to be left on the skin (like moisturizer or serum). If they’re wash-off products, like cleansers or masks, I only patch test them for as long as they’re supposed to be on the skin. So, for cleansers, I keep them on for about a minute. For masks, I keep them on for about 15 minutes.

After applying the product to clean skin, keep an eye out for 48 hours for signs of an allergic reaction. This could manifest anywhere, as an allergic reaction is a systematic (not localized) response. It could show up as a skin rash, severe itchiness, swelling, or burning.  It might go without saying, but if you experience any of these things, don’t use the product. I would also suggest consulting a dermatologist to determine which ingredient caused the allergic response.

How Do I Patch Test for Sensitivity (Irritation)?

To patch test for sensitivity, follow the same protocol as patch testing for an allergy. The difference is irritation will appear immediately, whereas an allergic response can take hours to days to appear. Also, irritation is localized, meaning it appears wherever you applied the product. An allergic reaction, on the other hand, is a systematic response.

It’s also worth noting that the skin’s barrier can differ in different areas. That means a product could cause irritation on your neck even if it doesn’t cause irritation on your face (or vice versa). While I suggest patch testing face products by applying them near the jaw, you might consider patch testing a product like a neck cream on the neck. Basically, when it comes to localized irritation, you want to patch test on the area you’ll actually be using the product.

Note: If you’re patch testing a product that contains exfoliating acids, it’s normal for the skin to appear pink. This should subside within 10-15 minutes, especially once a moisturizer is applied.

How Do I Patch Test for Clogged Pores?

This one is tricky since there’s technically no standardized way to patch test for comedones (clogged pores). There’s also no set timeline for when comedones will appear. It’s dependent on the individual, the product, the ingredients, and the skin’s microbiome among other things.

“Comedogenicity refers to the ability of a product to clog pores,” Dr. Zeichner says. “Traditional testing was performed on animal models like rats or rabbits. With a movement against the use of animal testing, many brands are now evaluating comedogenicity through its use on human skin. Some companies may even be making claims about comedogenicity based on the use of ingredients that do or do not block pores.”

With that being said, if you’re particularly prone to clogged pores (like a Skin Type 1, 2, or 3) you can still perform your own at-home test. The cheek (close to the nose) is a good place to perform this kind of test. That’s because there is a higher concentration of oil glands and pores in this area.

If a product is going to cause breakouts, it isn’t going to happen after one use. To truly test for breakouts and clogged pores, consider testing a small area for 7-10 days to be cautious. If all goes well, you can proceed to use the product on your entire face.

The Bottom Line

Performing a patch test is the best way to avoid an unnecessary reaction from a new skincare product. It’s worth noting that it’s possible to develop an allergic reaction to something you’ve used before. The reason for this is unclear, but it’s certainly possible. If you think you’re experiencing an allergy to a certain product or ingredient, consult a dermatologist to get to the bottom of it.

It’s also possible to experience irritation from a product/ingredient you’ve used before if your moisture barrier is compromised. That’s why it’s important to make sure you’re barrier is strong and intact before introducing any new products to your routine.

Next, learn how to quickly calm red, irritated skin!

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Lots of Updates, Featuring Some (Surprise!) Book News & Giveaways Galore

Between working (on work) and hustling together some exciting book launch events (which are going to kick ass and I can’t wait to tell you about them), I’m not sleeping much these days. BUT. I’ve also been working on some kick-ass blog posts about beauty oils and body care routines!  In fact, I was hoping to post them this week, but my plans were foiled. They were foiled, however, for the very best reason, and that reason is that our Korean Beauty Secrets book started shipping 3 WEEKS EARLY!

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

It was insane, actually, as we had absolutely no idea that was going to happen!  We found out about it when people started messaging us on Sunday to tell us their book had just arrived from Amazon. First we did a lot of squealing, and after that we panicked. The original release date was supposed be November 3rd. Coco and I have been working on a companion website, the URL of which is actually in the back of the book. But that website isn’t ready yet because we thought we had a couple more weeks to work on it! So I’ve been in a frenzy since this past Sunday, frantically trying to get the book website ready for prime time. I haven’t showered in a couple of days, I’ve been subsisting on cereal and black cherry seltzer, and sleeping for 8 hours in a row is my new life goal.  This is how the hot dogs are made, you guys!

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

But the good news is: books are shipping! And I finally got a couple of copies of it today, and they look really, really good! Not only is the content great, the actual production is amazing. The binding, the weight, the print quality are all absolutely gorgeous; better than we ever imagined it would be. I’m so proud of this book that I have to restrain myself from shoving it in people’s faces and saying, “Have you seen this? I wrote it. Look at it. I SAID LOOK AT IT!”

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

Book-Related Instagram Giveaways

We’ve got a couple of pretty exciting Instagram giveaways surrounding this book going on right now! Here are the details for both:

Giveaway #1

Club Clio USA Book Launch Countdown Instagram Giveaway Event

Club Clio has been awesomely supportive of this book launch. They are doing a whole series of giveaways leading up to November 3rd (the original book launch date), with different bloggers getting to choose the giveaway prize. Today marks the start of my Clio giveaway, and the prize I’m choosing to bestow the winner is: Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil! This is a moisturizing oil blend with fermented rice yeast, so it combines a few of my favorite things: fermentation, beauty oils, and Goodal. It’s rich but light, and perfect now that cooler, fall weather is setting in.

Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil
This giveaway is open to US and Canadian residents. Entry is easy! Just complete the following 3 steps:

Step 1: Post or regram the giveaway post from my Instagram account (@skinandtonics), with hashtags #beautywolfxclubcliousa #kerryxcoco #koreanbeautysecretsbook #clubcliousa #clio10dayskbeauty
Step 2:  Follow us on Instagram: Coco is @thebeautywolf, I’m @skinandtonics, and Club Clio USA is @clubcliousa
Step 3: Tag three friends you think might enjoy this giveaway

You can enter once a day, just tag three different friends each day!

Giveaway #2

Kerry & Coco’s “Show us Your Book” Mega-Hardcore-Balls-Out K-Beauty Giveaway

Okay, you got me, I actually just made the name up for this giveaway just now. It could be a little tighter! We thought we had a couple more weeks to think of a name! Luckily, we already had the prize all ready to go. Hold on to your hats:

Show us Your Book Giveaway Price Package

One lucky winner will get an insane prize package that includes the following full size products:

• Acwell Bubble Free pH Balancing Cleanser (a recent favorite, review forthcoming)
• S:um37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick
• Leejiham (LJH) Cosmetics Tea Tree 90 Essence
• Leejiham (LJH) Cosmetics Vita Propolis Ampoule
• Graymelin Hyaluronic Acid 100% (Serum)
• Illi Total Aging Care Body Oil (This oil changed my life)
• I’m Lip Liquid by XO Memebox in color OR601
• I’m Lip Liquid by XO Memebox in color VL600

and the follow deluxe sample/travel-size products:

• Illi Total Aging Care Body Oil
• Illi Total Aging Care Body Lotion
• Goodal Moisture Barrier Cream
• Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner
• Whamisa Organic Flowers Cleansing Oil

This prize is serious. We did not want to mess around, and we hope you’re as excited about it as we are!

How to Enter:

It’s super easy! All you have to do is post a picture on your Instagram of an in-person copy (preferably your personal copy) of Korean Beauty Secrets: A Practical Guide to Cutting-Edge Skincare & Makeup. You can style the photo however you want, but it has to be a picture of the physical book or e-book (as opposed to a picture you found on the internet). For e-books, just show us a shot of the book on your e-reader! Then follow and tag @kerryandcoco, @thebeautywolf, and @skinandtonics, and add hashtag #showusyourbook.

Once you’ve done that, voila! You’re entered! We’ll be choosing a winner at random on November 15, 2015 and announcing on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook. This giveaway is open internationally!

If you haven’t ordered your copy yet, now is a great time to do it. It looks like it’s only ~$14 on Amazon right now, which is a fantastic deal. It will also be available from a huge number of other retailers in the U.S. and internationally on November 3rd; Amazon just happens to be the only one I know is already shipping right now.

It’s an amazing book; we’re really proud of it, and we can’t wait for all of you to read it and tell us what you think!

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The Beginner’s Guide To Retinol & Retinoids: How To Prevent Dry, Flaky Side-Effects

As a product formulator and practicing esthetician with over 30 years of experience, I consider myself well-versed in retinol and retinoids. Fun fact: I personally knew one of the dermatologists who was instrumental in getting this ingredient FDA approved as the first topical preventative aging product (read the full story of when I met this dermatologist. It’s a good one). So without further ado, keep reading to learn my expert tips for getting maximum benefits from a topical vitamin A product, whether it’s a prescription form (retinoid) or in an over-the-counter version (retinol).

First things first. In an ever-changing world of skincare advancements related to preventing and reversing the appearance of lines, wrinkles, indented acne scars, large pores, and brown spots, there are TWO facts that have remained constant for the past 30+ years.

  • Fact #1: Certain types of vitamin A, the ingredient behind retinol and prescription retinoids, can reverse visible signs of aging. Using a topical product containing these ingredients can increase cell thickness, affect gene expression, thin the stratum corneum, and increase the production of collagen. With continued use, vitamin A can slowly improve the skin’s appearance (NCBI Study). It smoothes skin texture by lessening visible wrinkles, lines, indented acne scars, large pores, and brown spots. Simply put, this ingredient can deliver smoothing and resurfacing results. Thus, it can help the skin mature in a more desirable way.
  • Fact #2: You must take special care of your skin to manage and prevent potential side effects such as dryness and irritation (especially if you’re using a prescription formula). In the early ’90s when tretinoin first became FDA-approved for treating sun damage, not much was known about controlling its side effects. If misused, the effects were often intolerable. I once had a client who was using a prescription retinoid improperly. She smiled, and in front of my very eyes, areas of her face cracked and started to bleed. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing! These days, the side effects of retinol and retinoids are completely manageable (NCBI Study). All you need to do is take special care of your skin by following my expert tips.

The Most Common Types of Vitamin A Ingredients

1. Retinoid (Tretinoin)

This ingredient is derived from vitamin A and is only available in prescription formulas (with the exception of Adapalene, or Differin, which is now sold without a prescription). When applied to the skin, it converts directly to retinoic acid. It then binds to cell receptors and activates the cell maturation process in the skin. Brand names include Retin A, Retin-A Micro, and Renova.

2. Retinol

This is an ingredient found in non-prescription formulas. When applied (assuming it’s an encapsulated, stable, and well-formulated product), it converts slowly to retinoic acid. It’s time-released, which means it’s delivered into the skin gradually, over a period of hours, instead of all at once like retinoids are. Because of this, retinol users often experience less irritation than retinoid users. Therefore, retinol is ideal for sensitive, reactive skin types, as well as those with less sun damage. Despite being a gentler option, retinol is still effective and can deliver the same results as a prescription with long-term use.

Note: Biochemically, retinoids and retinol perform the same function, which means you’ll get results regardless of which one you choose to use. Results may take a little longer to achieve with retinol-based products, but that’s exactly what is needed for vitamin A newbies and people with sensitive skin types.

3. Retinyl Palmitate

This is a storage form of vitamin A. It’s a blend of pure retinol and palmitic acid, and it’s much weaker than retinol. The process of retinyl palmitate converting to retinoic acid is considerably more complex, and the amount that ends up reaching the cellular receptor is very small. It simply cannot compare to the efficacy of pure retinol. When used in a formula, this ingredient can improve the chemical stability of retinol and act as an emollient and antioxidant, but you typically shouldn’t count on it to deliver the same smoothing and brightening results as retinol. Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Linoleate, and Retinyl Propionate are in this same category.

4. Retinaldehyde

This is a stable precursor to retinoic acid. When it’s stable and encapsulated, it can convert slowly within the skin to retinoic acid just like retinol.

It’s important to note that just because a product contains one of the vitamin A ingredients listed above does NOT mean it will necessarily deliver results. You must consider how the formula is made, which percentage is used, how it’s delivered into the skin, and how stable it is. You’ll usually have to do a bit of research to find all of this out. If a brand is not readily sharing this information, I consider it a red flag, because it could be representative of the product’s lack of true efficacy. Any good formulator knows this is very important information to share with their customers; they should share their product stats proudly. (Read four things to look for when choosing a retinol product.)

How To Decide if You Should Use Retinol or Get a Prescription Retinoid From Your Doctor

I start all of my clients on retinol, regardless of how much sun damage they have. Here are some guidelines for making this decision for yourself.

 Start Using a Prescription Retinoid if You’re…

  • NOT sensitive at all. If you are sensitive, there’s no need to read this section, as a prescription retinoid is not best for you. (Most people have a certain degree of skin sensitivity, which is why I suggest using retinol first. If you fit the following conditions, though, you can eventually transition to using a prescription retinoid.)
  • Someone who’s over the age of 35 with a long history of sun damage. You may feel like your skin shows more visible signs of aging than other people your age.
  • Someone who, regardless of age, has pitted, indented acne scars from your younger years.
  • Someone who, regardless of age, has melasma from the sun, heat, pregnancy, or hormones. You’ll benefit from something stronger to work deeper and faster. Again though, if you have sensitive skin, it’s best to start with retinol.

Skip a Prescription Retinoid and Use Retinol if You’re….

  • Someone who, regardless of age, has thin, dry, and/or sensitive skin. This includes anyone who has rosacea, a history of eczema, or simply an easily-irritated skin type. These skin types may never adjust to a prescription retinoid due to the delicate protective barrier that’s easily compromised.
  • Someone under the age of 35 with no major acne issues who is already using vitamin A to prevent wrinkles, lighten discoloration, reduce pore size, and smooth skin texture. Sticking with retinol and occasional chemical peels is perfect because you’re already getting ahead of the aging process. There’s not as much repair and reversal work to be done in those younger than 35.

When to Start Using Retinol to Prevent Signs of Aging

Assuming that blemishes are not your main concern, I generally recommend starting to use retinol between the ages of 26 and 30. The exact age will depend on your specific skin type, although I don’t suggest starting it before 26. There are two reasons for this. The first is that many people who are younger than 26 are still dealing with breakouts. Despite what you may have heard, retinol or retinoids do NOT help cystic or pustular acne. However, prescription retinoids CAN be effective for managing closed comedones. I discuss this more in detail below.

The second reason is that vitamin A speeds up the skin’s metabolism, which begins to slow in your early 30s. When you’re younger, your skin is already very metabolically active. Using retinol or retinoids too early might backfire and stir up breakouts, rashes, and more. Basically, it could disrupt the skin’s natural balance.

What to Know Before Using Retinol or a Prescription Retinoid

Avoid Using Retinol or Prescription Retinoids While Pregnant

Of course, it’s always best to consult with your doctor. In my experience, though, most advise against using vitamin A until after giving birth due to potential risks. I have not personally come across any reported evidence of either topical retinol or retinoids causing harm, but doctors are extra cautious with expecting mothers, and understandably so.

Retinol Can Be Used During the Summer as Long as You’re Serious about Sun Protection

Retinol and retinoid products deliver the best results when used two to five nights a week year-round. Using it on and off can slow progress, so it’s important to commit to using it consistently, even during the summer months. As long as you’re someone who practices sun safety and is very conscientious about preventing suntans and sunburns, then you should be just fine.

However, if you are someone who enjoys tanning or someone who hasn’t yet mastered the art of sun protection, I would suggest discontinuing your retinol or retinoid seven days before intense outdoor sun exposure. Start it back up again a week after you’ve been in the sun—assuming you don’t have a sunburn, of course. While this will slow down results, it’s super important to prevent skin inflammation and irritation.

You’ll See Better and Faster Results If You Use Exfoliating Acids in Your Routine, Too

When dry, dead cells are regularly removed from the skin’s surface, vitamin A is more easily absorbed. You’ll definitely want to start using an exfoliating acid serum, but more on that later.

Retinol and Retinoids Don’t Deliver Visible Results Quickly, so You Must Be Patient

Unlike an exfoliating acid peel that delivers immediate results, vitamin A works incredibly slowly to create change in the skin. I generally tell my clients that they won’t start seeing improved textural changes for two to four months. With continued use, you’ll see more and more positive changes. Do not give up. Stick with it!

You’re Not Going to Get Anti-Acne Benefits With Retinol. You Might with a Prescription Retinoid, But Only For Certain Types of Breakouts

Yes, prescription retinoids like Retin-A were, in fact, originally developed in the ’70s for treating acne. It wasn’t actually discovered until later that the ingredient also helped with wrinkles. That explains why, for a long time, retinoids had the reputation of being a go-to for acne. The truth is, they’re not for everyone. All skin is different and so are the type of breakouts that each person experiences. (This explains why you may hear about a product working like magic for one person and then making another person’s breakouts worse!)

The type of acne prescription retinoids work best for is comedonal acne. This is the type that appears as whiteheads, blackheads, closed comedones, and clogged, non-inflamed bumps. Retinoids restore the organization of cells through cellular turnover. This, in turn, prevents cells from getting trapped and blocked in the pore-lining which in turn, prevents those little non-infected bumps from forming.

Prescription retinoids do not work well for sore, inflamed pustular acne or cysts. In fact, when someone has infected pustular and cystic acne, retinoids may actually make them worse. It’s far better to use products that have more proven breakout-fighting benefits, such as salicylic acid, tea tree, beta-glucan, niacinamide, manuka, sulfur, lactic acid, and benzoyl peroxide. (On that note, beware of skincare brands that claim their retinol product can treat acne AND wrinkles as a one-stop-shop. This is false and anyone sharing this is simply not informed of how retinol really works. Trust me on this!)

As for retinol, since it contains a lesser dose of vitamin A, it doesn’t work as hard as retinoids do to clear clogged bumps. If breakouts are your main concern, I usually advise focusing on clearing blemishes first. Once the skin is clear, you can start using a retinol product to prevent the visible signs of aging. However, there is now a 1% Differin (adapalene) gel retinoid formula available without a prescription. It’s worth adding to your routine to see if it alleviates breakouts.

One more note on retinol and breakouts—I suggest using an exfoliating acid serum that contains salicylic acid on nights you’re not using the retinol to increase vitamin A’s efficacy. I’ll discuss this more at length in a bit. I recommend the Renée Rouleau BHA Clarifying Serum to all of my clients, as well as the Zit Care Kit for making all kinds of blemishes disappear quickly.

It’s Best to Avoid Oil-Based Retinol Formulas If You’re Prone to Clogged Pores

Some retinol formulas are kept stable in a blend of pure oils. This gives them a somewhat greasy feel on the skin. While dry skin types can always benefit from oil saturation, oily and breakout-prone skin types should avoid these types of formulas. (After all, the underlying cause of blemishes is oil—oil breeds bacteria and bacteria lead to blemishes.) Choose your formulas wisely!

If You Have a History of Eczema, You Should Use Retinol—Not a Prescription Retinoid

Vitamin A is very active and breaks down the skin’s protective moisture barrier through its aggressive cellular turnover process (basically, it causes dryness). That explains why people who have eczema-prone skin find that retinoids can cause flare-ups. In this case, it’s best to only use retinol.

Even If You Only Apply a Prescription Retinoid to One Area of Your Face, It Can Affect Your Entire Face

Some people apply prescription retinoids strategically in an effort to target a specific area. For example, some people apply it only around their eye area. They think this will help eye-area wrinkles while sparing the rest of their face from dryness. In reality, the ingredient travels underneath the skin. Even if you apply a retinoid strategically, it will work everywhere, which means you can experience dryness everywhere.

A Step-By-Step Guide to Using Retinol

As I said before if you’re new to using vitamin A, I suggest starting with a non-prescription version such as retinol. To reiterate, the reason is that you want to introduce vitamin A slowly. Most people who start with a prescription (without proper usage instruction) eventually give up because their skin becomes too dry and irritated. If you have a prescription and haven’t been able to use it successfully, consider putting that on hold for now. Start with non-prescription retinol first to introduce it to your skin gradually. Advanced Resurfacing Serum is the retinol product that I personally use. It’s also the one I recommend to my clients. The formula is effective because it combines stable retinol AND skin-firming peptides that help prevent loss of tone.

1. Start by Using Your Retinol Product 2 Nights on, and 1 Night Off

Repeat this throughout the week. For best results, you must use retinol consistently (and often!). Your skin has other needs, though, so you don’t want to use it every single night. Plus, using it too often could prove too much for your skin, since it’s such a biologically active ingredient.

Following the two nights on, one night off rule will result in four nights a week. If you are over 40 with a history of sun damage and your skin isn’t overly sensitive, you can use it four to five nights a week. However, no one should use it for more than five nights a week. This can eventually result in increased sensitivity and a waxy and unnatural appearance.

On the other hand, if you’re under 40 and your skin is fairly sensitive, you might start by using it only twice a week. Then after two months, you can work up to using it three nights a week. Eventually, work up to four nights a week. When in doubt, start slow and increase as you go along. If you’re experiencing dryness or irritation, you’re either using too much or using it too often. This is a sure sign that you should cut back. Remember: using retinol or retinoids successfully is a marathon, not a sprint.

2. Avoid Applying Moisturizer Immediately After Applying Retinol

Using a cream or lotion right after applying retinol may dilute it slightly. It’s best to let it absorb for 20 minutes. Or, you can use a retinol serum that has a lotion-like texture. This can offer hydrating and protective benefits, thus skipping the need for moisturizer altogether.

3. Maximize Results and Minimize Potential Side-Effects By Using an Exfoliating Acid Serum on Opposite Nights

This is really important. Retinol works to encourage dull, sun-damaged skin cells to rise to the surface for easy removal. Using a gentle, alcohol-free exfoliating acid serum once or twice a week (such as one with glycolic, lactic, salicylic, or mandelic acid) will accelerate these cells’ removal. Vitamin A can then absorb deeper into the skin to perform its best. Using both will reveal a smoother, more even-toned texture.

A lot of people use exfoliating toners that contain acids. They often ask me where they should plug that into a retinol or retinoid routine. I never suggest that my clients exfoliate every day, so I don’t recommend using an acid-based toner every morning and night. This is regardless of whether or not you’re using any vitamin A products. If you want to use an exfoliating toner, I would suggest using it on the nights that you use the retinol or retinoid. It can act as a pre-treatment/primer to allow the vitamin A ingredient to absorb deeper into the skin.

Did you know that acids actually help correct dryness? When people experience surface dryness (due to age, drying products, airplane travel, etc), their first instinct is to apply face oil or a heavy moisturizer. This is helpful for pushing moisture into the top layers of the skin, but the dry, expired cells want to (and desperately need to) come off. Over-moisturizing may interfere with and slow down cell turnover. Regularly using exfoliating acids is like saying “out with the old and in with the new” to your skin. This is why top dermatologists and skincare professionals recommend acids so widely.

4. Once a Week, Skip the Exfoliating Acid or Retinol and Use a Hydrating Serum Containing Antioxidants, Epidermal Growth Factors, or Peptides

Your skin requires a variety of ingredients to age healthily. Therefore, you don’t want to constantly stay in exfoliation/cell turnover mode by only using acids and retinol. It’s just like your exercise routine. When working out, it’s best to alternate between various types of exercise, so you’re getting a little bit of everything. Your skin appreciates the same variety. The Renée Rouleau Firm + Repair Overnight Serum is the one I often suggest to my clients.

5. To Boost Results, Get a Professional Chemical Peel or Give Yourself One at Home

Once you’ve been on your new retinol routine for two months, it’s good to kick it up a notch. Try introducing your skin to a chemical peel—especially if you’re someone who has large pores, wrinkles, and discoloration from sun damage. A peel is essentially a stronger version of retinol. It’s intensifying your skin’s collagen-boosting activity to encourage faster smoothing results. Synergistically, they both support one another in the quest for smoother, more even-toned skin.

There are many types of peels, so you’ll want to consult with a trusted skincare professional to find out which type and what frequency is best for your skin. I generally recommend that clients get light to medium chemical peels (ones that make your skin shed for a few days after) six to eight times a year. You can get lighter peels every other month.

The Renée Rouleau Triple Berry Smoothing Peel is great to use three to four times a month. There are no harsh side effects, only beautiful results to increase the skin-smoothing benefits of retinol. You can also give yourself a DIY chemical peel at home if you happen to have a tube of a prescription retinoid lying around.

6. If You Think You Want to Start Using a Prescription Retinoid, Introduce It Slowly After 6 Months

Of course, you’ll have to consult with a doctor about this. There are so many different kinds, but your doctor can suggest what’s best for you and your specific skin goals. You should start with the lowest strength.

How to Introduce a Prescription Retinoid Into Your Routine

Weeks 1-4: Substitute Your Retinol Serum with a Prescription Retinoid One Night Per Week

After cleansing, immediately apply an alcohol-free toner. Leave it damp, then apply a thin layer of a lightweight moisturizer to the skin before applying your retinoid. The moisturizer cannot be heavy or greasy at all. Wait for five minutes and apply a pea-sized amount of the prescription to the entire face. (I recommend treating the neck and chest with retinoids, too. Use an extra pea-sized amount for this area as well.) Let dry for 20 minutes and follow with another application of moisturizer. This time, you can use your normal moisturizer. Ideally, use one that keeps the skin’s moisture barrier intact and sensitivity to a minimum. The Renée Rouleau Phytolipid Comfort Creme is a great option for new retinoid users.

Note: There has been much discussion in years past about whether or not using a moisturizer underneath vitamin A affects its performance. Most believe that it does not interfere with penetration. Instead, the right moisturizer can keep the moisture barrier intact to prevent dryness. This is truly the secret to making a prescription tolerable. I always recommend the Renée Rouleau Sheer Moisture Lotion to my clients due to its light texture and stable antioxidants. Retinoids can cause “micro wounding” in the skin, and antioxidants help stop the resulting inflammatory response. This makes Sheer Moisture a perfect companion to prescription formulas.

Weeks 4-10: Repeat the Above Process But Now Substitute Your Retinol Serum with a Prescription Retinoid Two Nights Per Week

Think of your prescription retinoid as a workout for your skin. You don’t want to lift the heaviest weights on day one. Instead, you want to take it slow and gradually build up to it over time.

Weeks 10+: Repeat the Above Process But Now Substitute Your Retinol Serum with a Prescription Retinoid Three Nights Per Week

For most people, I suggest sticking with this routine for the long run. You’ll alternate nights between your original retinol serum (eventually you can drop this), a retinoid, an exfoliating acid serum, and a hydrating serum. You’ll use your prescription retinoid three nights a week while giving your skin an amazing variety of other active ingredients. They’ll all work synergistically to improve the look of your brown spots, wrinkles, and large pores.

If you have very sun-damaged skin, you may want to increase the prescription retinoid to four nights a week after six months. Also, consider upgrading to a new one with a stronger percentage. I do, however, discourage people from getting too excited and using it too frequently. Over time, this can cause the skin to appear tight, shiny, and waxy, almost like a plastic Barbie doll. I can spot someone who is overusing prescription retinoids a mile away, and it’s not a great look. It just doesn’t look natural.

The Bottom Line

I’ve seen the results retinol and retinoids can provide on so many of my clients’ faces in the past 30 years of my career. While I’m super proud of the retinol formula I created, there are other great ones out there, too. You just have to do your due diligence since it’s a tricky ingredient with which to work, and not all formulators know how to make the best products.

I’ll leave you with one last thought. As I mentioned previously, using a retinol or retinoid is a marathon, not a sprint. It can take a while to see results, meaning you won’t get immediate gratification. To truly reap its benefits, without incurring dryness or irritation, deliver a slow drip of it to the skin. I recommend using it regularly for the rest of your life…or until a better anti-aging product takes its place! And if that’s the case, I’ll be sure to let you know. For now, head on down Retinol Road.

Next, find out how to adjust your skincare routine when using a prescription retinoid.

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Minimize Scarring: How to Care for a Facial Wound From Start to Finish

In July 2020, my good friend Thurman was riding an electric scooter when he hit a pothole and flew over the handlebars. He happened to be in Austin working on Tankproof, his nonprofit organization (of which my company is a huge supporter!). He FaceTimed me from the emergency room and wow, his face really got torn up badly. Now, over a year later, his wounds are thankfully healed up and I’ve been helping him deal with the scar left behind. Scars are a really challenging skin concern because they’re formed so deeply within the skin. I’ve written about different types of acne scars, but for this post, I wanted to address scars caused by an injury in hopes it could help you if you should find yourself in this type of situation. 

When you injure yourself, whether or not a scar forms isn’t always within your control (and getting your injury seen by medical professionals is always the first priority). That said, by sharing Thurman’s story, I’ll talk about what you can do to minimize scarring from a wound at various stages of healing. I’ll also share additional insights from Dr. Sam Lam, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon at Lam Facial Plastics, who has been helping advise Thurman on how to reduce scarring and hyperpigmentation.

Phase 1: In the ER

When Thurman FaceTimed me from the emergency room right after his accident, I happened to be having dinner with a friend of mine who is an ER doctor. He walked Thurman through what he could expect in terms of general wound care and stitches and told him to ask if there was a cosmetic surgeon on call in the ER. Luckily, there was! They numbed his face before thoroughly cleaning out his wound then stitching it up.

After he got back home to Baton Rouge, Thurman made an appointment with a local plastic surgeon to have the stitches checked out and make sure everything was in order. Dr. Lam agreed that this was a good move—once your injuries have been taken care of and you’re in the clear, you can turn your attention to aesthetics.

“When you have an open wound,” says Dr. Lam, “the first thing is to get it cared for and stitched up as quickly as possible. The longer it sits open, the greater the risk of infection. After this, I would advise beginning a relationship with a plastic surgeon who can help you manage the healing process to reduce scarring and hopefully avoid the need for future scar revision.”

Phase 2: Caring for the Wound to Minimize Future Scarring

For the first few weeks after getting stitched up, your priority should be caring for your wound according to your doctor’s instructions. Following their advice diligently is one of the best things you can do to minimize future scarring. 

“The main thing was keeping it clean,” Thurman says. “They also had me apply antibiotic ointment to keep it moist.”

Ointments used for wound care are usually petrolatum-based, which means they’re also very thick and occlusive. This allows them to form a protective seal over the skin. While this is ideal for healing, in some cases it can lead to enlarged or clogged pores.

This is what happened to Thurman, who developed a few milia on his cheekbone (you can see one of the bumps in the photo on the right). Milia are small, hard bumps that form within pores as a result of keratin becoming trapped beneath the surface of the skin. I believe Thurman’s scar tissue was especially vulnerable to this because it was basically raw tissue, and the pores were being re-formed. The thick ointment kept some of these new pores expanded as did the location of the scar—our cheeks are stretched a lot from facial movements such as smiling and talking. 

Once Thurman’s wound had started to heal and was no longer raw, I performed extractions to remove the milia for him. I also had him get a prescription retinoid and confirm with a dermatologist that it was safe to start using it on his scar. He continues to use it twice a week to help shrink the appearance of enlarged pores.

Dr. Lam’s Recommendations

Per Dr. Lam’s suggestion, Thurman had also started using silicone patches to cover his scar and improve its appearance. Silicone patches can minimize scarring by increasing the hydration within the outer layers of the skin. This can also help regulate collagen production, which may result in a flatter scar. Additionally, silicone patches can help keep scar tissue protected by shielding it from bacteria. 

During the early stages of healing, Dr. Lam notes that he also likes to have patients use hypochlorous acid: “I love medical-grade hypochlorous acid. It allows wounds to heal well by reducing bacteria and other contaminants, and it naturally minimizes contamination without risk to the tissue integrity.”

Be sure to consult with your doctor before using anything at home to make sure it’s a good fit for your wound.

Phase 3: The Scar Settles, and Hyperpigmentation Sets In

Once the skin heals and a scar is no longer fresh, one of two things can happen to your skin’s pigment: the first is hyperpigmentation, and the second is hypopigmentation.

Hyperpigmentation refers to areas of skin that become darker than your natural skin tone as a result of trauma or overstimulation. In response to an injury, your skin’s melanocytes (the cells that give our skin its color) are activated. In some cases, they become a little overzealous in their healing response and end up creating more pigment than they’re supposed to. This is why acne leaves marks behind.

Hypopigmentation, on the other hand, is exactly the opposite. An injury damages melanocytes and causes them to die off, resulting in a loss of pigment. This is why some scars turn white after they heal. This loss of pigment is incredibly hard to reverse, but there are some laser-resurfacing procedures that may be able to improve it. 

Managing Thurman’s Hyperpigmentation

At this point, Thurman’s wound was completely closed up and hyperpigmentation had set in (his scar had turned dark). Hyperpigmentation was something we needed to be particularly aware of with Thurman because of his skin tone. The deeper your skin tone, the more active your melanocytes are. If melanocytes are more active, to begin with, there’s an even greater risk for hyperpigmentation as the result of injury or trauma. It can also be a lot harder to reverse hyperpigmentation since melanin activity is harder to suppress, so I really encouraged Thurman to stay on top of this from the beginning.

Sun Protection

The first and most important aspect of this was keeping the scar protected from the sun. The whole goal is to get melanocytes to calm down and to signal to them that the skin is no longer under threat. UV light is a major trigger for hyperpigmentation because it stimulates melanocytes, so keeping sensitive scar tissue protected from the sun is a must. Of course, I made sure Thurman was properly applying sunscreen to his face and neck, taking extra care to cover his scar. Additionally, I believe it helped that he was still wearing a protective face mask much of the time. (Maskne may be a real nuisance, but the extra sun protection can be a bonus!)

Topical Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can offer additional protection against UV rays when paired with sunscreen. I had Thurman use the Renée Rouleau Vitamin C & E Treatment because it uses a form of vitamin C called tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. This is a very effective, fat-soluble version of vitamin C that has to be converted by the skin’s own enzymes, making it much gentler than L-ascorbic acid. Since scar tissue is very sensitive, I didn’t want Thurman putting something that acidic on it every morning before applying his sunscreen.

Exfoliation

For this reason, I also didn’t have Thurman start to exfoliate until after all of the fresh, pink scar tissue had healed and transitioned to hyperpigmentation. At this point, I had him add the Renée Rouleau Pore + Wrinkle Perfecting Serum into his routine one to two nights a week. 

Phase 4: Professional Treatments

One of Dr. Lam’s preferred treatments for scars is Botox injections. 

“To me, Botox is the most incredible healing agent,” he says. “In double-blind placebo-controlled studies, even a few units of Botox placed a week after a scar has been shown to help with healing. I like to do it soon after surgery or stitches, but honestly anytime in the first six months is helpful. The sooner the better.”

When Thurman reached out to Dr. Lam about ways to improve the appearance of his scar, Dr. Lam cautioned against anything too invasive for fear of either creating more hyperpigmentation or, worse, permanently depigmenting the area. He recommended Botox as a less invasive alternative, and Thurman plans to try it out. 

Surgical Interventions

According to Dr. Lam, it takes most scars a year to fully mature. Depending on the severity, a lot of them will improve on their own. This is why Dr. Lam advises waiting a year before considering surgical intervention. If you’re still unhappy with the appearance of your scar at this point, he says there are a number of procedures that can address different aspects of scarring, from irregular pigmentation to raised or uneven borders. His advice is to find an experienced surgeon with good reviews and many years of practice who also has extensive before and afters that you like. From there, your surgeon will be able to advise you on the best procedure for your scar type.

Conclusion

As you can see, managing a scar is a long and tedious road. Certain scars are inevitable but know there are steps you can take to minimize their appearance and if they still bother you, procedures and treatments that can improve them later on. 

As for Thurman, he says he’s happy with the way things played out and notes that being kind to yourself is important when dealing with any kind of recovery from injury.

“There are definitely psychological struggles that accompany it,” he says, “and they kind of ebb and flow. My advice to anyone going through a similar situation or healing process is just to be patient and be kind to yourself.”

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If You Have Acne, You Should Consider Yourself Lucky

Updated 10/21/21. If you currently experience a lot of breakouts or you used to in your younger years, you should consider yourself lucky (yes, you read that right!). I wholeheartedly believe this to be true, and there’s even a scientific study to back it up. Keep reading to learn all about the unexpected benefits of acne!

The Upside of Acne

I’ve been an esthetician working hands-on with clients for over 30 years now, and one thing I have found to be true is this—those who make their skin a priority and take care of it day in and day out are the ones who often have the best-looking skin in their adult years. In my experience, those who excel at this are often the ones who had a history of breakouts in their younger years.

Why is this? Well, if you’re someone who has struggled with your skin, you’re most likely super diligent about taking care of it, since ignoring it will only make breakouts worse. Sleeping with makeup on? Nope. That surely doesn’t happen for someone who is prone to breakouts. How about using any low-quality skincare product? Nope. That certainly won’t work either.

People who experience regular breakouts are also most likely to put their skin in the hands of an expert, consulting an esthetician or dermatologist early on. This is invaluable (regardless of whether or not you have breakouts)—especially if you follow their advice and stick to a consistent routine.

Good Habits Last a Lifetime

In the process of dealing with your skin concerns, you surely picked up some really good habits. Maybe you pay attention to skincare ingredients and only use high-quality products formulated specifically for your skin type.  You might be super diligent about sticking to your morning and nighttime routine. You possibly go in for regular facials.

Knowing this, it makes sense that many people who become estheticians used to struggle with breakouts in their youth. They developed a passion for skincare and wanted to help others address the problems they personally encountered. (I know so many estheticians like this).

On the flip side, I can’t tell you how many people I’ve met who never had any breakouts and therefore barely took care of their skin (or, at the very least, weren’t very consistent about it). This lack of care often begins to show once they get into their 40s when they see dull skin and premature lines and wrinkles form.

So, while it may be frustrating that you’re dealing with acne now, know that breakouts will come and go (as will the discolored marks left behind), but adopting good skincare habits will last a lifetime. Trust me, the rewards will pay off in the long run.

What Studies Have Shown About Acne

According to this study, people who have previously suffered from acne tend to have longer telomeres in their white blood cells compared to those with perfect skin. These telomeres―sometimes referred to as protective caps―help keep chromosomes from deteriorating. As a result, cells are better insulated against aging. Pretty cool, right?

So there you have it, two solid reasons why acne may just end up working in your favor!

What to Do If You’re Currently Dealing With Breakouts

If you’re someone who is in the midst of dealing with breakouts, I completely understand how real the struggle is. When you’re in the middle of it, sometimes it feels like the road to clear skin is completely obscured. The first thing I always tell people is that acne is a disease for which there is no known cure. I don’t say this to discourage anyone, just to help people understand what’s realistic and how they should set their expectations.

However, just because acne can’t always be eradicated doesn’t mean it can’t be successfully managed. I’ve helped more clients with acne than with any other skin condition, and it’s so gratifying to put them on the right path and watch all their hard work pay off. I’ve published a lot of advice for managing breakouts throughout the years, including the science behind breakouts and how to prevent adult hormonal breakouts.

I also highly recommend scheduling a  consultation with someone who will personalize your skincare routine or, if your breakouts are severe, seeing a dermatologist. Severe breakouts can lead to indented scarring that lasts a lifetime, and a dermatologist will be able to start you on a prescription retinoid to help prevent this.

Next, make sure you’re not falling for these 35 skincare myths and mistakes.

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