Mushroom Skincare Is Trending—Here’s How Fungi Can Benefit Your Skin

As an esthetician with over 30 years of experience, I’ve seen countless skincare trends come and go. Many of them were short-lived; they created a lot of buzz for a little while. Others lasted long enough to become serious skincare staples in their own right.

That’s what’s happening with the latest trend to sweep through the industry—mushroom skincare. Yes, it’s just like it sounds…Now more than ever, brands are harnessing the power of mushrooms to formulate new and effective products. (This is a trend I predicted earlier this year, and it’s certainly proving true!)

While mushrooms have been used medicinally for thousands of years, we’re just starting to understand how they can benefit our bodies and our skin. In this post, I’ll discuss the various types of mushrooms that are commonly used in product formulations and how each one affects the skin. I’ll also explain why I think this is a trend with some serious staying power!

Why Are Mushrooms Trending Right Now?

I believe mushrooms are trending for a few different reasons. The first is that cosmetics trends, like clothing trends, are cyclical. Mushrooms were first introduced in mainstream skincare products about 30 years ago, so it’s only natural that they’d cycle back now. It’s just like how, if you keep your clothes long enough, they’ll eventually come back in style!

The second reason I think mushrooms are so trendy right now is that there’s a huge crossover happening between food, supplements, and skincare. Since mushrooms are found in so many supplements, it only makes sense that they’d make their way over to skincare.

Finally, people seem to be becoming more and more interested in alternative medicines. As I said before, mushrooms have been used medicinally for thousands of years. Now, people are wondering, “If these mushrooms are good for my body, what can they do for my skin?

What Are The Health Benefits of Mushrooms?

Tero Isokauppila is the founder of the functional foods company Four Sigmatic, which specializes in mushroom-based products. He says mushrooms can benefit the body in many different ways. “Mushrooms can help support your immune system, stress management, gut health, athletic performance, and glowing skin. One of the main reasons for this is that fungi and animals have common ancestry and we share up to 50% of our DNA. This makes us very preceptive to mushrooms in our bodies.”

According to Isokauppila, all functional mushrooms are adaptogens, which means they help the body adapt to stress. “This is huge for overall health and wellness, as well as for your skin,” he says. They also provide basic nutritional benefits, being high in vitamins B and D. “Compared to other supplements or vitamins, there isn’t a toxic upper limit with functional mushrooms and they are safe for long-term use. In fact, you’ll see the most benefits with consistent long-term use,” he says.

Mushroom research is at an all-time high. Thanks to advancements in science and technology, we’re just starting to understand how they can benefit our skin. There’s still a lot of research to be done, especially since there are thousands of mushroom species out there, but the research that we do have is very promising!

How Can Mushrooms Benefit My Skin?

Generally speaking, all mushrooms have a bit of the same chemistry to them. They are composed of polyphenols, which are really potent antioxidants. They also have triterpenes, which help reduce inflammation, and complex polysaccharides, which are excellent humectants that form a flexible film over the skin to attract water and make it feel smooth to the touch. This combination—polyphenols, triterpenes, and polysaccharides—makes mushrooms really powerful skincare ingredients.

That’s not even to mention the vitamins and other biologically active compounds that we’re just beginning to discover and study. Specific types of mushrooms have even been shown to strengthen the skin’s immune system and provide anti-wrinkle effects. Cool, right?

What Types of Mushrooms Are Used in Skincare?

There are nine types of mushrooms I commonly see used in skincare products. The most common of these are silver ear mushroom (also known as the snow mushroom or tremella fuciformis), reishi, and shiitake. These seem to be the most popular because they’re readily available and they’ve been studied extensively.

Keep scrolling to see all nine and learn how each one can benefit the skin.

1. Tremella Fuciformis

Also known as the silver ear mushroom or the snow mushroom, this is by far the most common mushroom skincare ingredient. It’s famous for its high polysaccharide content. More specifically, it has a high content of mannose, xylose, and glucuronic acid, which act as humectants. They also provide film-forming activity to make the skin feel soft and smooth.

This mushroom is often called “the natural hyaluronic acid,” since it can hold up to 500 times its weight in water (that’s why it’s one of my favorite hydrating ingredients to formulate with!). According to one study, tremella fuciformis, when used at 0.05%, provided better moisture retention than 0.02% hyaluronic acid. I love that it offers additional benefits, too. Studies show tremella fuciformis can offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. Perhaps that’s due to this extract’s polyphenol and flavonoid content, which are known antioxidants.

Recommended Products: Skin Correcting Serum and BHA Clarifying Serum

2. Reishi

Reishi (or ganoderma lucidum) is often an ingredient of smoothies and supplements, which is why it’s one of the most recognizable mushrooms on this list. It’s well researched and has a long history of use in Traditional Chinese Medicine, in which it’s referred to as “the mushroom of immortality.”

It’s high in polysaccharides as well as something called ganoderic acid, which can reverse collagen degradation and address cellular damage. It can even help with dark spots since it helps decrease melanin concentration. Thanks to its beta-glucan content, reishi can also provide anti-inflammatory benefits.

3. Shiitake

Shiitake (or lentinula edodes) is also widely used in Traditional Chinese Medicine, and it’s referred to as “the elixir of life.” It can address dark spots and discoloration, probably because of its naturally occurring kojic acid, which is a known skin brightener. It can also provide powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits since it contains ergothioneine and beta-glucan.

4. Maitake

Maitake (or grifola frondosa) grows in the wild in the mountains of Japan. It’s not very prevalent in skincare formulas in Europe and North America, perhaps because it’s not as readily available as other mushrooms. Like the other mushrooms on this list, it’s high in beta-glucan, which provides an anti-inflammatory benefit.

5. Fomes Officinalis

This mushroom is found in Eastern Europe and grows on the trunks of conifer trees. It was used medicinally for a very long time thanks to its astringent properties that come from a high agaric acid content. We now use it topically, and these same astringent properties can help minimize the appearance of pores while reducing oil production.

6. Coprinus Comatus

Found in Europe and North America, this mushroom is known for its skin brightening and anti-inflammatory properties. Like shiitake, it also contains the antioxidant ergothioneine (though coprinus comatus contains much more of it). Even though it can benefit the skin, it’s not commonly used in skincare formulations since it’s hard to work with. Once harvested, it immediately starts to decompose and lose its active content. After just a few hours, it will turn completely black and be unusable. Because of this, some manufacturers have special harvesting methods that allow them to extract the mushroom for use in cosmetics.

7. Chaga

Chaga (or inonotus obliquus) is becoming more and more popular as the mushroom skincare trend expands. Like reishi, it’s often consumed in supplements, although it offers some serious skin benefits when applied topically. Research shows that it can reduce redness and strengthen the skin barrier due to its high phytochemical content. Translation? It’s a good ingredient for sensitive skin types.

8. Northern Truffle

This mushroom, also known as albatrellus confluens, is sourced from Northern Europe. It contains powerful anti-inflammatory compounds, like grifolin, which may help inhibit pain receptors and reduce redness, sensitivity, and irritation in the skin. There’s a lot of interest in this mushroom for pharmacological applications as well as skincare.

9. White Truffle

The white truffle (or tuber aestivum) is another edible mushroom that’s being studied for its skin benefits. It’s sourced from Southern France and Northern Italy, and it has a high amino acid content that can effectively hydrate the skin.

The only problem with this mushroom (and the Northern Truffle, too) is that it’s a very expensive skincare ingredient. Truffles can’t be cultivated outside of their natural habitat, so they must be wild-harvested, which takes a lot of time, effort, and expertise. Plus, truffles are an important part of many cuisines, so they’re not as commonly used in skincare formulations.

Are Mushrooms Sustainable Skincare Ingredients?

As the skincare industry focuses more and more attention on sustainability efforts, it’s only natural to wonder about the effect of mushroom sourcing and cultivation on the environment. According to Isokauppila, the effect is quite minimal.

“Mushrooms are very sustainable,” he says. “They require small amounts of land/greenhouse space. They also help break things down in nature and restore harmony. Studies show picking mushrooms in nature, or not, has no impact on the number of mushrooms growing next season. So, buying both cultivated (ideally long grown) mushroom fruiting bodies and wildcrafted species is really good. Just avoid lab-grown mycelium products, which are grown on grains (rice or oats).”

The Bottom Line

The mushroom skincare trend shows no signs of stopping. Since they can do everything from soothing irritation to providing hydration and offering anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, I think almost everyone can benefit from mushroom extracts!

Next, are waterless skincare products better for your skin and the environment?

References:

  • Bhardwaj, Anuja et.al. (2019). Lingzhi or Reishi Medicinal Mushroom, Ganoderma lucidum (Agaricomycetes) Mycelium Aqueous Extract Modulates High-Altitude Induced Stress. International Journal of Medicinal Mushrooms. vol.21, doi:10.1615/IntJMedMushrooms.2019030648
  • Venturella, Giuseppe et al. “Medicinal Mushrooms: Bioactive Compounds, Use, and Clinical Trials.” International journal of molecular sciences vol. 22,2 634. 10 Jan. 2021, doi:10.3390/ijms22020634
  • Ma, Xia et al. “A review on the production, structure, bioactivities and applications of Tremella polysaccharides.” International journal of immunopathology and pharmacology vol. 35 (2021): 20587384211000541. doi:10.1177/20587384211000541
  • Liu, H.; He, L. Comparison of the moisture retention capacity of Tremella polysaccharides and hyaluronic acid. J. Anhui Agric. Sci. 2012, 40, 13093-13094.

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Skin and Circadian Rhythm: How to Optimize Your Skincare Routine

You’ve likely heard of circadian rhythm before, but chances are you associate it more with sleep patterns than with your skin. Circadian rhythms are physical, mental, and behavioral changes that follow a 24-hour cycle. Your body is constantly making adjustments based on the time of day. These adjustments are triggered by both your biological or “internal” clock and by external environmental signals.

The main environmental signal that dictates our circadian rhythms is light. This signal is picked up through the eyes and transferred to different organs. Other signals include things like temperature, exercise, and food (this is why you might’ve heard that it’s best to avoid eating late at night).

Many organs are thought to have their own circadian rhythm, and skin is no exception. 

Why Does Understanding the Skin’s Circadian Rhythm Matter?

I’ve always told my clients and customers that when it comes to treating skin, you have to work with Mother Nature and not against her. For example, the fastest way to get rid of a blemish is by working in sync with its natural life cycle. Using the right type of spot treatment with the correct ingredients at the right time makes all the difference in the world and is key to getting rid of a blemish quickly.

Circadian rhythm is a similar concept. By using the right skincare ingredients at the right time of day, you can optimize your skincare routine and give your skin exactly the type of support it needs for better results.

What Your Skin is Doing During the Day

During daylight hours, your skin is constantly exposed to aggressors like UV radiation, pollution, and free radicals, all of which can cause DNA damage. This means that during the day, your skin is protecting itself. You want to do everything you can to support its natural defenses.

These are a few of the physiological changes that take place in your skin during the day:

  • Lower Temperature: The surface temperature of your skin is lowest early in the day. Your skin gets a lot of heat exposure from the sun, though, which can increase inflammation, redness, and pigmentation.
  • Increased Sebum Production: Your skin’s production of sebum (oil) peaks in the early afternoon. This is basically your skin creating a natural film to protect itself from the environment (and the reason you may sometimes feel your skin is an oil slick by the end of the day).
  • Better Moisture Barrier Function: Studies suggest your skin is better at holding on to moisture during the day thanks to improved barrier function. This results in better moisture retention but also means your skin is less receptive to skincare products.
  • Increased Antioxidant Production: Your skin’s natural antioxidant production is increased during the day as it tries to protect itself from DNA damage caused by free radical molecules

Best Skincare Ingredients for Daytime

With this in mind, here are the best skincare products to use in the morning. All of these boost your skin’s natural defense mechanisms.

1. Sunscreen

No surprise here! A sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is the most important step in your morning routine. It’s also the number one way to protect your skin against DNA damage from harmful UV rays. We already know sunscreen is important for preventing premature skin aging and skin cancer, but it seems there’s yet another reason to use it faithfully. Some studies have shown that UV radiation can disrupt your skin’s circadian rhythm for up to 24 hours. This means too much sun exposure could interfere with your skin’s nighttime repair processes. It illustrates the importance of protecting your skin with both SPF and sun-protective clothing.

2. Antioxidants

This is a great example of supplementing your skin’s natural defenses. Your skin is already working hard to produce antioxidants during the day, but adding more topically is a great way to give it a boost. Antioxidants help prevent skin damage on a cellular level by running interference against unstable free radical molecules.

3. Makeup

Yes, you read that right! I believe wearing some form of foundation makeup every day is a great way to give your skin extra protection. Here’s how it works.

For more detail, learn how to put together the perfect morning skincare routine.

What Your Skin is Doing at Night

If daytime is all about defense, nighttime is all about offense. This is when your skin gets to work repairing any damage that was incurred throughout the day. Even though your skin is constantly working to repair itself, these processes definitely peak in the evening (they don’t call it “beauty sleep” for nothing!). These are a few of the physiological changes taking place in your skin at night:

  • More Permeable Barrier: Now that your skin isn’t facing an onslaught of environmental aggressors, your skin’s protective barrier function is decreased. This means two things: 1) Your skin is more receptive to products, so you want to take advantage by adding a serum to your nighttime routine. 2) It’s super important to use a well-formulated moisturizer for your skin type to prevent water loss and support your skin’s moisture barrier.
  • Higher Cell Proliferation: At night, your cells are growing and dividing at a higher rate so they can regenerate.
  • DNA Repair & Renewal: Your skin gets to work repairing DNA damage from the day. This also helps bolster and strengthen your skin’s immune system.

Best Skincare Ingredients for Nighttime

With this in mind, here are the best skincare products to use at night. All of these boost your skin’s natural reparative processes.

1. Antioxidants

During the day, your skin uses up its antioxidant supply to defend against free radicals. Applying antioxidants topically at night means your skin can use them for repair instead. Here are five of my favorite antioxidant ingredients to look for.

2. Retinol

Retinol, or vitamin A, is technically also an antioxidant. It boosts skin cell turnover, which helps the skin to regenerate itself from within.

3. Exfoliating Acids

Exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs dissolve dead cells on the surface of your skin. These dead cells can make your skin look dull and may make it difficult for other active ingredients to penetrate effectively. Acids also help reduce unwanted pigment and encourage a more even-toned complexion.

4. Peptides

Peptides help build and repair collagen that’s been damaged by environmental aggressors. Collagen loss is a key component of skin aging, so peptides are a great (and generally well-tolerated) ingredient to look into.

Read more about how to build the perfect nighttime skincare routine.

What’s the Best Time to Do Your Nighttime Skincare Routine?

We used to think that repair processes only occurred at night during sleep. We now know that these processes actually kick in as soon as the sun starts to go down. Because your skin has its own circadian rhythm, the loss of daylight signals that it’s time to start moving into repair mode, even if you haven’t gone to bed yet. This may mean that it’s beneficial to do your nighttime skincare routine earlier in the evening rather than waiting until right before your head hits the pillow. Another reason I encourage this is that there’s less of a chance you’ll get too tired to do your nighttime routine and end up skipping it altogether.

Can Blue Light Affect Your Skin’s Circadian Rhythm?

Since the main signal governing our skin’s circadian rhythm is light, it stands to reason that blue light could have an effect. As I mentioned, it’s already been pretty well established that UV light has a big effect on these natural rhythms. Blue light is part of the visible light spectrum, which is emitted by the sun but also by our electronic screens.

While blue light given off by screens hasn’t really been implicated in skin aging, circadian rhythm may be another story. Truthfully, there’s a lot more research that needs to be done in this area before we can say for sure, but I do believe there’s a strong possibility late-night screen time can interfere with the skin’s natural cycles. And since a disrupted circadian rhythm can interfere with everything from the skin’s immune system to DNA repair, it’s definitely worth considering. We already know it’s better for your sleep habits overall to avoid screens right before bed, so if it can improve your skin as well, even better!

What did you think of this topic? I think circadian rhythms are fascinating and that there’s still a lot of potential yet to be harnessed in this field. I’m excited to see more research in this area and hope it will help provide even more insight into how we can optimize and personalize our skincare routines!

Up next, read 10 nighttime skincare tips that can make a big difference.

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5 Ways to Make the Transition from Winter to Spring Skin Care

As you start putting your hats, scarves, and down coats back into storage, it’s time to start thinking about making some adjustments to your skincare routine as well as your wardrobe. 

Thankfully, the transition from winter to spring isn’t as harsh as other seasonal shifts can be, but you still want to pay special attention to your skin any time there’s a significant shift in weather. As your environment changes, your skin will have different needs. While this doesn’t mean you have to completely rehaul your skincare routine for spring, there are a few adjustments I suggest making to help refresh your skin as it recovers from the stress of winter. 

Keep reading for five easy ways to adjust your skin care routine for spring!

Common Skin Concerns This Time of Year

During winter, the constant onslaught of dry air affects our skin in a number of ways. Through a process called osmosis, the air pulls moisture from your skin leading to dry, dead skin cells as well as moisture barrier disruption. Thanks to this, there are five main issues I see people commonly dealing with at the end of winter:

  1. Dull skin. Dry, expired cells don’t reflect light the way healthy, hydrated cells do, so many people are going into spring concerned about dull-looking skin.
  2. Sensitive neck. Because it’s so thin, the skin on the neck is already sensitive. Add in scratchy wool scarves and turtlenecks, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for a winter skin rash
  3. Fine lines. These are lines that show up mainly around the eyes, and sometimes a little on the forehead. They’re small superficial lines caused by dehydration, which is why they become more prominent during winter. 
  4. Clogged pores. If you’re someone whose skin naturally produces oil, clogged pores can build up over the course of the winter season. While oil is still flowing, it gets trapped by a surface layer of dry skin cells and settles in your pores. This can lead to bumpy texture.
  5. Sensitivity. When our skin’s moisture barrier becomes compromised, tiny invisible cracks form. These allow moisture to escape while irritants can get in more easily. This is why, during winter, some products that you can normally use suddenly sting. 

5 Ways to Adjust Your Skincare Routine for Spring 

To address these skin concerns coming out of winter and get your skin ready for spring, here are five adjustments you can make to your skincare routine.

1. Switch Up Your Cleanser

This is usually one of the first things I tell people to do when a major seasonal shift happens, and springtime is no exception.

During winter, you may have been using a richer cleanser with a balm or lotion texture (I personally prefer lotion cleansers when it’s cold out). Once spring is around the corner, I typically encourage people to switch to a gel cleanser. Gel cleansers are a little better at cutting through the oil your skin will start to produce more of as temperatures rise.

Gel cleansers sometimes get a bad reputation for being drying, but this is all thanks to old-school foaming cleansers. Modern gel cleansers are sulfate-free, use low-foaming agents that won’t strip the skin, and include hydrating ingredients. 

If you’re looking to switch up your spring skincare routine but are worried about hydration, try the Moisture Protecting Cleanser. If dull skin is more your concern, I’m a huge fan of the Mint Renewal Cleanser for bringing life and circulation back to the face.

Speaking of cleansers, be sure you aren’t making these common cleansing mistakes.

2. Lighten Up By Ditching Oils and Heavy Creams

While there are some skin types (like Skin Types #7-9) that require richer, lipid-based moisture year-round, most of us need to start shifting our focus toward lighter, water-based hydration in spring. 

Be mindful that you don’t want to make this change all at once. Seasonal transitions don’t happen overnight, and neither should your skincare adjustments. On colder nights, go ahead and continue to use your winter moisturizer or face oil. On warmer nights, use something with more of a lotion texture, like Sheer Moisture Lotion. Lotions use a higher ratio of water-based ingredients compared to oils, so they’ll keep you moisturized without weighing you down.

This is also a good time to start incorporating hydrating serums with ingredients like hyaluronic acid into your routine (I like this serum because it also has vitamin C to brighten). You can also opt for gel masks to relieve thirsty skin.

3. Spring-Clean Your Pores With Exfoliation 

Constant dry, winter air leads to a buildup of dead cells on the surface of your skin. This buildup is responsible for making skin look dull and clogging pores. If you’re dealing with either of these issues, it’s time to up your exfoliation. 

I recommend adding in an extra day or two of exfoliation, depending on what your skin can handle (I recommend most people exfoliate three to five times a week). 

Remember, there are two ways to exfoliate. One is exfoliating acids, like AHAs and BHAs. I like Pore + Wrinkle Perfecting Serum because it combines both, which is great for lifting surface dryness and clearing pores. The second way to exfoliate is physical exfoliation, like Mint Buffing Beads facial scrub. Once or twice a week, gently roll these rounded jojoba beads across your skin to physically lift off loosened dead cells. This is great for instantly making skin look brighter, making pores look smaller, and giving relief from clogged pores. (Pro tip: I love a gentle physical scrub to get rid of dryness on the neck.)

At-home exfoliation is great, but spring is also a great time to go for a pore-clearing facial with an esthetician! It’s always nice to go for a skin reset when the seasons change, plus this gives you access to a professional who can answer any questions you have about switching up your personal skincare routine for spring. (Learn how often you actually need to be getting professional facials.)

Read more about how to get your pores clean (and keep them that way).

4. Load Up On Antioxidants

I believe a serum with antioxidants should be part of any solid morning routine year-round but come spring, you’ll want to up your game. As we start spending more time outdoors exposed to the elements again, it’s helpful to up the dose you’re giving your skin topically.  

You might already be using a vitamin C serum in the morning, but I like adding antioxidants in at night, too. Using something like the Firm + Repair Overnight Serum allows your skin to use the diverse mix of antioxidants to repair itself, not just to protect itself like during the day. Topical antioxidants are the best way to protect your skin directly, but it doesn’t hurt to eat a diet rich in these 10 antioxidant foods.

And of course, let’s make sure we’re wearing SPF all year round! Come spring, it’s time to start focusing more on sun-protective clothing again. Remember, protecting yourself from the sun is the number one way to prevent visible signs of skin aging. 

5. Introduce Retinol Into Your Routine

Speaking of the best ways to prevent visible signs of aging, spring is a fantastic time to dip your toe into starting retinol. If you don’t already know, it’s amazing for smoothing fine lines, fading discoloration, addressing large pores, and bringing a glow to dull skin (basically, everything you want coming out of winter). That said, retinol is a very active ingredient so some people can’t tolerate it as well during winter when their moisture barrier is weakened. 

Spring is a great time to start using retinol because our skin is generally less sensitive since the weather is more forgiving. Always start slow when using retinol and then work your way up at a pace that’s comfortable for you. Hopefully, by next winter, your skin will be acclimated enough that you’ll be able to keep using retinol even during the colder months.

Interesting in retinol but not sure how to start? Read my Beginner’s Guide to Retinol. 

So there you have it, five ways to adjust your skincare routine for spring! I hope you found some useful information, and I’d like to leave you with one last bonus tip: always listen to your skin. As I mentioned, seasonal shifts don’t happen overnight. Let your skin tell you what it needs as you slowly settle into your new routine.

Next, read all about what you can do now to prevent summer sun spots.

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TikTok’s Viral Vitamin C Test Isn’t Foolproof—Here’s What You Should Know

By now, I’m sure you’ve heard countless dermatologists, beauty editors, and estheticians alike extol the skin benefits of vitamin C. It can protect our skin from aging caused by oxidative stress, boost collagen production, and encourage a brighter complexion by suppressing hyperpigmentation. For these reasons, it’s definitely a staple ingredient that I recommend almost everyone incorporate into their daily routine.

That said, vitamin C can have its downsides. The fact that it’s such a powerful antioxidant is also what can make it a very unstable ingredient. Vitamin C always wants to be reacting with something, so the minute it comes into contact with air, light, or water, it oxidizes and is no longer effective. (Have you ever had a vitamin C serum that turned brown? This is what happens when vitamin C oxidizes, and it’s definitely not a good thing.)

To make matters even more confusing, there are many different forms of vitamin C that can be found in skincare formulas, and they all have varying degrees of stability. 

With all these caveats, it’s no wonder people are intrigued by the viral vitamin C experiment made popular on TikTok. The experiment involves adding a brown-colored iodine solution to a glass of water, stirring it, then adding a few drops of a vitamin C serum. The idea is that if the solution turns clear, the vitamin C serum must be effective. Vice versa, if it doesn’t turn clear, the vitamin C serum must be ineffective. 

Unfortunately—like everything else when it comes to vitamin C—it’s not quite that simple. With the help of cosmetic chemist Valerie George, I’ll explain how vitamin C can change the color of iodine and why you shouldn’t be banking on this experiment to judge the efficacy of your serum. Here goes!

Why Does Vitamin C Turn Iodine Clear?

To understand why this reaction occurs, we need to delve into a bit of a chemistry lesson. 

According to Valerie, iodine is what’s called a divalent molecule. This means it prefers to be in pairs and will always be found bound to another iodine molecule. When iodine molecules are paired up, they take on a brownish or purple color.

Simply put, when you add certain substances to an iodine solution, that divalent bond can become disrupted and the iodine molecules get split up. This is what causes a color change. (Remember putting iodine on a potato slice in grade school and watching it turn bright blue? This is a similar reaction that’s caused by iodine coming into contact with the starches in a potato.)

When Vitamin C is added to an iodine solution, it breaks apart the bond joining the iodine molecules causing the brown solution to become clear.

It’s Not Just Vitamin C That Causes This Reaction

The type of reaction we’re seeing in this TikTok experiment is what’s called a reduction. The reason I want to stress this is that it’s not just vitamin C that can reduce iodine. Iodine could be reduced by any type of antioxidant, including citric acid, lactic acid, or vitamin E. The reaction can also be caused by other types of ingredients that have reducing power, such as sodium hydroxide. Almost all cosmetic formulas have multiple ingredients that could probably contribute to a reduction, so when you’re doing this experiment it’s difficult to say if a reaction was caused strictly by the vitamin C in a product. 

Not All Forms of Vitamin C Are Able to React With the Iodine 

Another way in which this experiment is misleading? Just because a vitamin C serum doesn’t reduce the iodine doesn’t mean it won’t be effective when applied to the skin. The reason is that not all forms of vitamin C are going to be available to travel out of a skincare formula and into the iodine solution. 

Take, for example, the Renée Rouleau Vitamin C&E Treatment. This product uses a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C called tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD). The fact that THD is oil-soluble is one of the reasons it can penetrate into the skin really effectively, but it also means you wouldn’t see a reaction after dropping it into a glass of water where there aren’t any oils present. 

Additionally, there are enzymes within the skin that slowly convert THD to pure ascorbic acid—another reaction that can’t be replicated in a glass of water.

All this to say, you can’t really look at how a complex vitamin C product reacts with iodine in a glass of water and directly translate that to how it will interact with your skin. These are ultimately two different scenarios involving completely different chemistries. 

Bottom Line

While the vitamin C iodine experiment on Tik Tok is undoubtedly cool and visually satisfying, it’s misleading. It’s not an accurate method of measuring how effective a vitamin C serum is going to be when applied to your skin, and there are a number of other ingredients commonly found in skincare products that could cause the same color-changing reaction. 

Next, need help when it comes to choosing the right vitamin C serum for your skin? Here are 5 things to look for

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The Beginner’s Guide to Healthy Aging

Updated 02/11/22. As an esthetician, I’m always asked, “What should I be doing to my skin NOW to prevent wrinkles from appearing later?”  The truth is that there are many different things you can do. As someone who will be turning 53 this year, I know firsthand the difference that a healthy lifestyle and an effective skincare routine can make. And no matter how old you are, it’s never too late to implement new habits. Keep reading for my guide to healthy aging.

Intrinsic vs. Extrinsic Aging

First, let’s talk about the difference between intrinsic and extrinsic aging. We’ve all heard someone say, “Look how young they look! They must have good genes.” While we are genetically programmed from birth to age a certain way, genetics are now thought to only be responsible for 20-30% of aging. This is what’s referred to as intrinsic aging.

The other 70%-80% depends on extrinsic aging. This refers to aging caused by environmental factors, such as lifestyle and skincare—all of which you have control over. This is great news because it confirms that how we care for our skin far outweighs our genetic predisposition. When it comes down to it, healthy aging is all about making good choices.

Your Guide to Healthy Aging

Here’s what you can start doing NOW to promote healthy skin aging later.

1. Limit Sun Exposure

UV rays are the number one reason for premature skin aging. A study out of Australia even showed that “the skin of daily sunscreen users aged a full 24% less than that of occasional wearers.” This just goes to show how important daily sunscreen use is. You must apply SPF every day, 365 days a year, rain or shine, inside or out.

I started wearing sunscreen every day when I was 28 years old, which was considered pretty early back in 1998. I would have worn it earlier in my 20s but I just couldn’t find one that didn’t make me break out. So, I created my own! Weightless Protection SPF 30 is lightweight and won’t clog pores, cause blemishes, or feel greasy. It’s great for all skin types, and I wear it every single day without fail. (It’s my daily moisturizer, so no extra moisturizer is needed once I apply it.)

I really envy and admire all of the teens out there who are diligent about sunscreen. They are so lucky to have this knowledge and be able to put it into practice at such a young age. Sunscreen will undoubtedly and dramatically slow the progression of visible signs of aging, so make it a daily habit. And make sure you’re using it correctly (this is the right way to apply sunscreen).

2. Switch Up Your Sleeping Position

Did you know that the way you sleep may be the second most prominent cause of wrinkles (after sun exposure, of course)? Sleeping on your side is like ironing wrinkles into your skin. To prevent wrinkles from forming around the chest, neck, mouth, and eyes, you should sleep on your back. I know it’s easier said than done, but if you sleep on your side, you could potentially be spending more than 2,500 hours per year reversing the positive effects of your skincare routine. (See how I sleep.)

3. Wear Glasses and Sunglasses

Creases from repetitive facial expressions (like squinting, laughing, smiling, talking, and yawning) can ultimately result in permanent lines and wrinkles. Of course, our faces were meant to move, but you want to avoid facial expressions that are unnecessary, such as squinting. This will accelerate the appearance of lines and wrinkles around your eyes. Be sure to wear glasses (if you need them) and sunglasses. Don’t put off getting your eyes checked.

FYI, you can also prevent signs of aging from forming on your neck. Neck lines and wrinkles, which are called “tech neck,” are caused by the constant position of looking down at phones and computers. Read more about “tech neck” and how to prevent it.

4. Try Microcurrent Treatments

Gravity causes the muscles of the face to sag—especially those that are rarely used. Skin experts used to think this was unavoidable, but now we understand that exercising the muscles is possible and can help the face appear tighter and firmer. (Fun fact: We have 53 muscles in our face, and 32 of them are accessible for exercise.)

So, how do we exercise the muscles of our face? We can use professional microcurrent treatments. These are machines that use low-level electrical currents to simulate the currents that naturally run through your body. The waves it gives off are able to penetrate through your skin and into your muscles. Because microcurrent works to strengthen muscles, it’s often described as a “workout for your face.”

For home use, I like using a microcurrent device from a brand called NuFace. Learn more about microcurrent and how it works.

5. Wear Sun-Protective Clothing

This is an important key to healthy aging. Just like sunscreen, sun-protective clothing can prevent UV light from accelerating the aging process. (One more thing—stop wearing this piece of clothing if you want to save your skin—and chest!)

6. Avoid Smoking and Second-Hand Smoke

This should come as no surprise. Smoking (and inhaling second-hand smoke) are dangerous to the body. When it comes to the skin, specifically, it starves cells of oxygen, making it look dull and tired. Also, collagen-destroying enzymes (MMPs) ramp up when the skin is exposed to tobacco smoke. This dramatically increases how quickly the skin ages. Read more about how smoking affects the skin.

7. Limit Alcohol and Drug Use

Every drug will affect the body differently, but generally speaking, drugs can stress the nervous system. This, in turn, elevates hormones (adrenals) that contribute to the wear and tear of connective tissue, resulting in loose, sagging skin.

As for alcohol, it’s not doing your skin any favors either. Overconsumption of alcohol causes chronic inflammation and harmful free radical activity which is the underlying cause of skin aging. Learn more about how drinking alcohol affects the skin.

8. Lead a Healthy Lifestyle

When it comes to healthy aging, don’t overlook your lifestyle as a whole. This includes everything from eating a nutritious diet to getting enough quality sleep, exercising, and focusing on living your best, happiest life that’s filled with love and laughter. As for laughter, did you know that doctors and health professionals are prescribing laughter to lower blood pressure, reduce stress hormones, and increase disease-fighting cells? Laughter is free and fun and everyone can do it. It’s no wonder you always hear, “Laughter is the best medicine.

When Should I Start Using Preventative Aging Products?

Answer: six months old (well, for sunscreen, that is).

Since the sun is the primary cause of premature aging, this makes sunscreen the most biologically active ingredient available. Sunscreen, more so than any other over-the-counter skincare product, has the greatest ability to prevent wrinkles and premature skin aging. Sunscreen can be applied to children as young as six months of age. (Of course, consult your doctor as to the best one to use for an infant.) This essentially means that the concept of healthy aging begins at less than one year of age. It’s never too early to start, right? Again, Weightless Protection SPF 30 is the one I recommend for everyday use under makeup.

As for other skincare products, a serum can be a game-changer. They’re designed to create positive change in the behavior of your skin. However, depending on the ingredients (such as retinol, certain vitamin combinations, and peptides), it may not be appropriate for those in their 20s and younger. This is because many serums are formulated to increase the metabolism of the cells. This action is needed for skin that is showing a lot of signs of aging but may be too active for younger skin and those prone to breakouts since this type of skin already has an active metabolism.

If you need help choosing the right serum for your skin type, take the Skin Type Quiz. At the end of it, you’ll get personalized recommendations.

What Skincare Ingredients Should I Use for Healthy Aging?

Aside from sunscreen, there are two skincare ingredients/products I recommend using to encourage healthy aging.

1. Retinol or Retinoids

We can now safely speed up the skin renewal process with products that contain retinol. I, for one, use the Advanced Resurfacing Serum three nights per week to encourage smooth, even-toned skin without wrinkles. Make sure you look for these four things when choosing a retinol product. Then, read my beginner’s guide to retinol before adding it to your routine.

2. Vitamin C

This is one of the most extensively researched antioxidants in skincare. It’s found to be extremely effective in interfering with aging free radicals that are found in the environment, such as those that come from sunlight, stress, and pollutants. (Learn more about free radicals and how they can accelerate the aging process.)

Not only does vitamin C give your skin a daily dose of antioxidants, but it’s also helpful in reducing discoloration and brown spots. I use the Vitamin C&E Treatment every single day (I apply it in the morning before my sunscreen). It contains both lipid and water-soluble forms of stable vitamin C to work deep within the epidermal layers.

Will Anti-Aging Products Make My Skin Worse If I’m Prone to Breakouts?

It’s important to always choose products that are appropriate for your skin type — even when it comes to products that slow down signs of visible aging. Many cosmetic companies assume those who want anti-aging care must have dry skin but this is not always the case. For those who produce oil and are prone to breakouts (like Skin Types 1, 2, 3, and 4), using products for dry skin can be problematic. It is possible for all skin types to preserve their youthful appearance and achieve their skincare goals with the right balance of products. Take my Skin Type Quiz to learn about which products are best suited for your skin’s unique needs.

In summary, it’s all about prevention. How you take care of your skin, body, and mind now will pave the road for how you will look and feel in the future. Make caring for your skin a priority and you will get the reward of beautiful, healthy skin for a lifetime.

Next, check out the 10 best ways to prevent wrinkles from forming!

The post The Beginner’s Guide to Healthy Aging appeared first on Expert Skin Advice from Renee Rouleau.

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Could a Skincare Detox Benefit Your Skin? The Answer Might Surprise You

Updated 02/01/22. Recently, I’ve been hearing a lot of talk about the concept of a “skincare detox.” I’ve also heard it referred to as a “skincare cleanse” and a “skin fast.” Whatever you call it, this trend involves stopping the use of all skincare products in order to “reset” the skin. The idea is that without products getting in the way, your skin can balance itself so that any conditions you’re struggling with—whether dryness, oiliness, breakouts, or sensitivity—will be resolved.

It makes sense that the trend would pivot from one extreme to another. It used to be all about an elaborate 13-step skincare routine. Now, it’s all about no routine at all. The question is, though, is this actually beneficial? Are we, in fact, using too many skincare products, and is a “skincare detox” the solution? Keep reading to learn my thoughts.

Will a Skincare Detox Really Work?

To answer this question, I want to start by talking about what the word “detox” really means. Medically speaking, detoxification refers to the removal of toxic substances from the body. When it comes to beauty, the word “detox” is unregulated. Its meaning is vague at best, which is why I like to think of it as a “reset.” In other words, your skin is acting up, so you strip everything down to bare bones. It’s kind of like cleaning up your diet after the holidays. You stop eating rich foods and go back to basics to feel more balanced.

In the case of skincare, I do think this can be beneficial, but I don’t think anyone should just stop using skincare products altogether. Instead, I suggest paring back your routine, so you can tell what your skin likes and (just as importantly) doesn’t like. In this way, a back-to-basics “detox” could really work. However, if you’re thinking that detoxing means removing toxins via a charcoal or clay mask, then the answer is no. Essentially, it comes down to how you define the term, “skincare detox.”

On that note, some people think if they start using “clean” skincare products, their skin will purge all the toxins from their old products. They go through extensive breakout periods, and they’re okay with it because they think their skin needs to break out to re-balance itself. This simply isn’t the case. The breakouts are likely due to two things. The first is internal/lifestyle factors. The second is using a product that’s not compatible with their skin type. And the word “clean” itself is just as vague and unregulated as “skincare detox.” In fact, there’s no legal definition. (Learn more about skincare marketing terms and what they really mean.)

Should I Try a Skincare Detox?

Before committing to a skincare detox, ask yourself, “what problem am I trying to solve?” If you can’t clearly answer this question, then a skincare detox might not be for you. That said, there are some issues that can be improved by a skincare detox:

Red, Irritated, and Reactive Skin

If your skin is frequently red and hot and/or it stings when you perform your skincare routine, chances are you have a damaged moisture barrier. There are a lot of different things that can cause this, but what I see most, is that people are overusing active ingredients and using products that are too harsh for their skin.

Doing a skincare detox, and by that, I mean paring down your routine, can help you identify which products are the root of the problem. From there, you can curate a skincare routine based on your specific skin type that agrees with your skin.

Eczema, Perioral Dermatitis, Rosacea, or Other Inflammatory Conditions

It’s not always possible to identify the triggers for these conditions. However, using the wrong products is, once again, a common cause for flare-ups. This tends to be more common in women since they often experiment with skincare more regularly.

Even if you’re experiencing a flare-up caused by environmental factors like allergies or weather changes, it can still be beneficial to strip everything back. This will make sure your products aren’t further aggravating your skin and making matters worse. Of course, if these types of issues persist, you’ll want to schedule an appointment with a dermatologist who can assess your individual needs. Conditions like eczema, rosacea and perioral dermatitis sometimes require a prescription, especially if you’ve simplified your routine and you’re not seeing improvement.

Should I Try a Skincare Detox If I Have Breakouts?

In my opinion, people who are struggling with breakouts probably won’t benefit from a skincare detox. Most acne, and especially adult acne, is caused by hormonal factors. Skincare products are simply used to help manage the situation.

That said, if you have breakouts, using harsh or overly drying products can actually exacerbate the situation. Breakouts happen when oil gets trapped inside pores by dead skin. This creates an environment where bacteria can thrive. If you’re using harsh or overly drying products, you could actually be making the situation worse by causing more dry, dead skin cell build-up. Not to mention, you could be causing excess irritation (irritated skin is more likely to break out than balanced skin). So, in this way, removing irritating products from your routine can create an environment where breakouts are less likely to occur.

What’s the Best Way to Go About a Skincare Detox?

Take it back to basics. Only use “boring” skincare products that are gentle, soothing, and free of irritants such as fragrance, artificial dyes, drying alcohols, and harsh sulfates. Like I said before, I don’t think it would be beneficial for someone to stop using skincare products altogether. Instead, look for products that include barrier-supporting ingredients.

While you’re getting your skin back on track, I suggest sticking to just three products:

  1. Cleanser
  2. Moisturizer
  3. Sunscreen

I’ve heard people say they skip moisturizers to let their skin “breathe.” I don’t suggest this, especially if you’re struggling with conditions like eczema or perioral dermatitis. First of all, skin doesn’t respire, so the idea of skin breathing is a myth. Second, moisturizer protects the skin and prevents water loss, which can lead to even more moisture barrier damage (always remember that skin cells are like fish—they need water to live).

If you go back to basics for a while and your skin improves, this means you’ve been using the wrong products for your skin type.

Once your skin has been in a good place for two weeks, you can slowly start to introduce other products back into your routine. The key is to introduce them one at a time so you can tell if something irritates your skin. You should also consider performing a patch test for each new product. (Read all about how to avoid a negative reaction to skincare products!)

How Many Skincare Products Is Too Many?

There is no exact number of skincare products everyone should use, but I have a general philosophy. I think everyone should use a gentle cleanser, an alcohol-free toner, a hydrating serum, and a moisturizer (which should include SPF in the daytime). Something to keep in mind is that our skin is like a sponge and can only absorb so much. At a certain point, things just accumulate on the surface of the skin.

I understand why people want to layer on all sorts of products. There are so many amazing ingredients available, and we all want to reap the benefits. While I do believe it’s good to use a variety of ingredients to give your skin a full spectrum of benefits, my philosophy is that it’s best to cycle through them, focusing on just one active a night, so it can do its job. Using too many actives at the same time risks irritation, which brings us back to the original problem that a “skincare detox” is meant to solve.

As an example, you might use a retinol serum three nights a week, followed by three nights of an exfoliating acid serum and one night of a hydrating serum with peptides and antioxidants. The exact products you use will depend on your skin’s specific needs. (If you want to find out which products are best for your specific skin concerns, take the Skin Type Quiz!)

The Bottom Line

While there may be a few people out there who are lucky enough to have skin that’s so well-balanced they don’t need to use products, most of us are constantly exposed to things that disrupt our skin’s barrier. Using the right products is one of the best ways to protect our barriers, so I never recommend forgoing products altogether. That said, if your skin is acting up, a “skincare detox” (AKA going back to basics) is a good way to identify whether your products are doing more harm than good.

Next, learn how to prevent your protective face mask from causing breakouts and irritation.

The post Could a Skincare Detox Benefit Your Skin? The Answer Might Surprise You appeared first on Expert Skin Advice from Renee Rouleau.

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The Importance of Your Skin’s pH Level (and How You Could Be Disrupting It)

Acidic, neutral, alkaline—you may remember hearing these terms in your high school chemistry class, but did you know they apply to your skin as well? Maintaining the right pH level for your skin is essential to a healthy moisture barrier. As a refresher, the moisture barrier is the outermost layer of your skin that helps regulate hydration levels while protecting against harmful bacteria and environmental aggressors. 

In this post, I’ll explain exactly how pH level is integral to healthy skin. I’ll also share the three most common ways the pH of your skin can become unbalanced and how to avoid it. 

What is the pH Level of Skin?

Since skin is a solid, it doesn’t actually have a pH value. When you hear someone talk about the “pH of the skin,” what they’re really referring to is the pH of the acid mantle. This is a thin, protective film that forms on the skin’s surface and is made up of ceramides and lipids, along with naturally-occurring acids and other chemical compounds secreted by bacteria living on our skin. The acid mantle is just one important layer of the complex ecosystem that forms the skin’s protective moisture barrier.

The natural pH level of our skin is slightly acidic and typically sits somewhere between 4.2 and 6. Most studies have shown that resting, healthy skin has a pH close to 4.7. 

What Role Does pH Play in Skin Health?

Maintaining a good pH level for your acid mantle is important because it helps keep the skin in homeostasis. Essentially, it keeps everything balanced so that skin cells have an optimal environment that keeps them functioning in a happy and healthy way. 

Our skin’s microbiome is also very much affected by the pH of our acid mantle. Every type of bacteria has an ideal pH range that it lives in, and usually “bad” bacteria can live at a higher pH. So, if we can keep the acid mantle at a pH of around 4.7, bad bacteria can’t grow very well. This also allows the good bacteria that do thrive at this pH to help keep unwanted bacteria in check. 

Finally, since a strong acid mantle means a strong moisture barrier, it can help keep your skin healthy by discouraging a number of conditions including dryness, dehydration, irritation, rosacea, and dermatitis.

What Causes the Skin’s pH to Become Unbalanced, and How Can It Be Prevented?

Skin really is an incredible organ, and for the most part, it’s very, very good at keeping itself balanced. (Thank you, Mother Nature!) Even when it’s exposed to something that disrupts its pH, healthy skin can correct itself within minutes to hours. Pretty impressive, right? However, repeatedly disrupting your skin’s acid mantle can chip away at the integrity of the moisture barrier over time, eventually leading to barrier damage and sensitivity. (This is why overuse of exfoliating acids is such a common cause of skin irritation.) 

Here are the three most common ways I see skin pH become disrupted and my advice for preventing it.

1. Skincare Products

It probably comes as no surprise that the number one way I see people disrupting the pH level of their skin is with skincare products. These are the main culprits:

  1. Overusing acidic products (like exfoliating acids or L-ascorbic acid)
  2. Using harsh cleansers (I prefer sulfate-free and you should, too)

Like I said, healthy skin bounces back pretty quickly, so using something more acidic or alkaline here and there isn’t going to be a big deal. It’s more about long-term or prolonged exposure, meaning if you leave something on the skin for a long period or use it over and over again. 

My advice? Use pH-balanced skincare products for your skin type and follow manufacturers’ directions so you aren’t overusing certain ingredients. 

Generally speaking, you want skincare products that fall within a range of 4-7. Some say 5.5 is the ideal pH level for skincare products, but to be honest, most skin isn’t going to react much to a difference of 0.5 or even 1. The pH will also vary depending on the type of product. Obviously, I’ve mentioned exfoliating acids, which are most active at a range of 3-4. As long as they’re used properly, this benefits your skin by helping it shed dead skin cells so fresh new ones can take their place. Cleansers, on the other hand, tend to be higher on the pH scale. 

Should I Use pH Strips to Test My Products?

The short answer? You can, but I personally don’t see much of a benefit. First, know that these strips aren’t very precise or consistent. They can tell you roughly where on the pH scale a product lies if you want to make sure it isn’t anything crazy, but this is unlikely in any case. Most products are going to be very carefully balanced when made by a cosmetic chemist. (DIY home products are a totally different story and should be avoided!) Product pH is measured using a high-end probe that’s able to get a very exact reading. Based on the reading, a chemist will add an ingredient like citric acid, a pH adjuster, until they reach the desired value. They’re very conscious of the pH of a formula because it affects the stability of a product as well as the efficacy—different ingredients sometimes require different pH levels in order to stay active. All this to say, there’s quite a lot that goes into it, and even if you get a rough idea of a product’s pH most people don’t have the expertise to put that into context. 

No need to use pH strips to test your Renée Rouleau products, though! If you’re curious about the pH of a formula, just check out the FAQ section of the product page. 

2. Tap Water

Most tap water in the U.S. is “hard,” meaning it contains minerals that give it a slightly higher pH than you would ideally want for your skin. The best way to combat this is by using a pH-balanced toner right after cleansing. Saturate a toning cloth with an alcohol-free toner and gently wipe it over the skin after cleansing. This will help your skin rebalance itself as well as remove any residue tap water might leave behind.

Read up on all the ways tap water can affect your skin and what you can do about it.  

3. Sweating

Finally, sweat can actually raise the pH of skin because it allows us to secrete a higher concentration of the compounds that make up our acid mantle. This doesn’t affect the skin as much as skincare products or tap water can, just be sure you’re always washing your face after a workout to remove sweat and bacteria (also important if you’re breakout-prone!). 

Here’s all my advice on how to care for your skin before and after a workout

Did you know pH played such an important role in your skin’s health? It’s pretty fascinating! Now that you know the three main ways your skin’s pH can be disrupted, you’ll be able to keep an eye out.

The post The Importance of Your Skin’s pH Level (and How You Could Be Disrupting It) appeared first on Expert Skin Advice from Renee Rouleau.

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Lots of Updates, Featuring Some (Surprise!) Book News & Giveaways Galore

Between working (on work) and hustling together some exciting book launch events (which are going to kick ass and I can’t wait to tell you about them), I’m not sleeping much these days. BUT. I’ve also been working on some kick-ass blog posts about beauty oils and body care routines!  In fact, I was hoping to post them this week, but my plans were foiled. They were foiled, however, for the very best reason, and that reason is that our Korean Beauty Secrets book started shipping 3 WEEKS EARLY!

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

It was insane, actually, as we had absolutely no idea that was going to happen!  We found out about it when people started messaging us on Sunday to tell us their book had just arrived from Amazon. First we did a lot of squealing, and after that we panicked. The original release date was supposed be November 3rd. Coco and I have been working on a companion website, the URL of which is actually in the back of the book. But that website isn’t ready yet because we thought we had a couple more weeks to work on it! So I’ve been in a frenzy since this past Sunday, frantically trying to get the book website ready for prime time. I haven’t showered in a couple of days, I’ve been subsisting on cereal and black cherry seltzer, and sleeping for 8 hours in a row is my new life goal.  This is how the hot dogs are made, you guys!

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

But the good news is: books are shipping! And I finally got a couple of copies of it today, and they look really, really good! Not only is the content great, the actual production is amazing. The binding, the weight, the print quality are all absolutely gorgeous; better than we ever imagined it would be. I’m so proud of this book that I have to restrain myself from shoving it in people’s faces and saying, “Have you seen this? I wrote it. Look at it. I SAID LOOK AT IT!”

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

Book-Related Instagram Giveaways

We’ve got a couple of pretty exciting Instagram giveaways surrounding this book going on right now! Here are the details for both:

Giveaway #1

Club Clio USA Book Launch Countdown Instagram Giveaway Event

Club Clio has been awesomely supportive of this book launch. They are doing a whole series of giveaways leading up to November 3rd (the original book launch date), with different bloggers getting to choose the giveaway prize. Today marks the start of my Clio giveaway, and the prize I’m choosing to bestow the winner is: Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil! This is a moisturizing oil blend with fermented rice yeast, so it combines a few of my favorite things: fermentation, beauty oils, and Goodal. It’s rich but light, and perfect now that cooler, fall weather is setting in.

Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil
This giveaway is open to US and Canadian residents. Entry is easy! Just complete the following 3 steps:

Step 1: Post or regram the giveaway post from my Instagram account (@skinandtonics), with hashtags #beautywolfxclubcliousa #kerryxcoco #koreanbeautysecretsbook #clubcliousa #clio10dayskbeauty
Step 2:  Follow us on Instagram: Coco is @thebeautywolf, I’m @skinandtonics, and Club Clio USA is @clubcliousa
Step 3: Tag three friends you think might enjoy this giveaway

You can enter once a day, just tag three different friends each day!

Giveaway #2

Kerry & Coco’s “Show us Your Book” Mega-Hardcore-Balls-Out K-Beauty Giveaway

Okay, you got me, I actually just made the name up for this giveaway just now. It could be a little tighter! We thought we had a couple more weeks to think of a name! Luckily, we already had the prize all ready to go. Hold on to your hats:

Show us Your Book Giveaway Price Package

One lucky winner will get an insane prize package that includes the following full size products:

• Acwell Bubble Free pH Balancing Cleanser (a recent favorite, review forthcoming)
• S:um37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick
• Leejiham (LJH) Cosmetics Tea Tree 90 Essence
• Leejiham (LJH) Cosmetics Vita Propolis Ampoule
• Graymelin Hyaluronic Acid 100% (Serum)
• Illi Total Aging Care Body Oil (This oil changed my life)
• I’m Lip Liquid by XO Memebox in color OR601
• I’m Lip Liquid by XO Memebox in color VL600

and the follow deluxe sample/travel-size products:

• Illi Total Aging Care Body Oil
• Illi Total Aging Care Body Lotion
• Goodal Moisture Barrier Cream
• Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner
• Whamisa Organic Flowers Cleansing Oil

This prize is serious. We did not want to mess around, and we hope you’re as excited about it as we are!

How to Enter:

It’s super easy! All you have to do is post a picture on your Instagram of an in-person copy (preferably your personal copy) of Korean Beauty Secrets: A Practical Guide to Cutting-Edge Skincare & Makeup. You can style the photo however you want, but it has to be a picture of the physical book or e-book (as opposed to a picture you found on the internet). For e-books, just show us a shot of the book on your e-reader! Then follow and tag @kerryandcoco, @thebeautywolf, and @skinandtonics, and add hashtag #showusyourbook.

Once you’ve done that, voila! You’re entered! We’ll be choosing a winner at random on November 15, 2015 and announcing on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook. This giveaway is open internationally!

If you haven’t ordered your copy yet, now is a great time to do it. It looks like it’s only ~$14 on Amazon right now, which is a fantastic deal. It will also be available from a huge number of other retailers in the U.S. and internationally on November 3rd; Amazon just happens to be the only one I know is already shipping right now.

It’s an amazing book; we’re really proud of it, and we can’t wait for all of you to read it and tell us what you think!

The post Lots of Updates, Featuring Some (Surprise!) Book News & Giveaways Galore appeared first on Skin & Tonics : Skincare Guides & Product Reviews.

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Lots of Updates, Featuring Some (Surprise!) Book News & Giveaways Galore

Between working (on work) and hustling together some exciting book launch events (which are going to kick ass and I can’t wait to tell you about them), I’m not sleeping much these days. BUT. I’ve also been working on some kick-ass blog posts about beauty oils and body care routines!  In fact, I was hoping to post them this week, but my plans were foiled. They were foiled, however, for the very best reason, and that reason is that our Korean Beauty Secrets book started shipping 3 WEEKS EARLY!

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

It was insane, actually, as we had absolutely no idea that was going to happen!  We found out about it when people started messaging us on Sunday to tell us their book had just arrived from Amazon. First we did a lot of squealing, and after that we panicked. The original release date was supposed be November 3rd. Coco and I have been working on a companion website, the URL of which is actually in the back of the book. But that website isn’t ready yet because we thought we had a couple more weeks to work on it! So I’ve been in a frenzy since this past Sunday, frantically trying to get the book website ready for prime time. I haven’t showered in a couple of days, I’ve been subsisting on cereal and black cherry seltzer, and sleeping for 8 hours in a row is my new life goal.  This is how the hot dogs are made, you guys!

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

But the good news is: books are shipping! And I finally got a couple of copies of it today, and they look really, really good! Not only is the content great, the actual production is amazing. The binding, the weight, the print quality are all absolutely gorgeous; better than we ever imagined it would be. I’m so proud of this book that I have to restrain myself from shoving it in people’s faces and saying, “Have you seen this? I wrote it. Look at it. I SAID LOOK AT IT!”

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

Korean Beauty Secrets Book

Book-Related Instagram Giveaways

We’ve got a couple of pretty exciting Instagram giveaways surrounding this book going on right now! Here are the details for both:

Giveaway #1

Club Clio USA Book Launch Countdown Instagram Giveaway Event

Club Clio has been awesomely supportive of this book launch. They are doing a whole series of giveaways leading up to November 3rd (the original book launch date), with different bloggers getting to choose the giveaway prize. Today marks the start of my Clio giveaway, and the prize I’m choosing to bestow the winner is: Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil! This is a moisturizing oil blend with fermented rice yeast, so it combines a few of my favorite things: fermentation, beauty oils, and Goodal. It’s rich but light, and perfect now that cooler, fall weather is setting in.

Goodal Repair Plus Essential Oil
This giveaway is open to US and Canadian residents. Entry is easy! Just complete the following 3 steps:

Step 1: Post or regram the giveaway post from my Instagram account (@skinandtonics), with hashtags #beautywolfxclubcliousa #kerryxcoco #koreanbeautysecretsbook #clubcliousa #clio10dayskbeauty
Step 2:  Follow us on Instagram: Coco is @thebeautywolf, I’m @skinandtonics, and Club Clio USA is @clubcliousa
Step 3: Tag three friends you think might enjoy this giveaway

You can enter once a day, just tag three different friends each day!

Giveaway #2

Kerry & Coco’s “Show us Your Book” Mega-Hardcore-Balls-Out K-Beauty Giveaway

Okay, you got me, I actually just made the name up for this giveaway just now. It could be a little tighter! We thought we had a couple more weeks to think of a name! Luckily, we already had the prize all ready to go. Hold on to your hats:

Show us Your Book Giveaway Price Package

One lucky winner will get an insane prize package that includes the following full size products:

• Acwell Bubble Free pH Balancing Cleanser (a recent favorite, review forthcoming)
• S:um37 Miracle Rose Cleansing Stick
• Leejiham (LJH) Cosmetics Tea Tree 90 Essence
• Leejiham (LJH) Cosmetics Vita Propolis Ampoule
• Graymelin Hyaluronic Acid 100% (Serum)
• Illi Total Aging Care Body Oil (This oil changed my life)
• I’m Lip Liquid by XO Memebox in color OR601
• I’m Lip Liquid by XO Memebox in color VL600

and the follow deluxe sample/travel-size products:

• Illi Total Aging Care Body Oil
• Illi Total Aging Care Body Lotion
• Goodal Moisture Barrier Cream
• Whamisa Organic Flowers Deep Rich Essence Toner
• Whamisa Organic Flowers Cleansing Oil

This prize is serious. We did not want to mess around, and we hope you’re as excited about it as we are!

How to Enter:

It’s super easy! All you have to do is post a picture on your Instagram of an in-person copy (preferably your personal copy) of Korean Beauty Secrets: A Practical Guide to Cutting-Edge Skincare & Makeup. You can style the photo however you want, but it has to be a picture of the physical book or e-book (as opposed to a picture you found on the internet). For e-books, just show us a shot of the book on your e-reader! Then follow and tag @kerryandcoco, @thebeautywolf, and @skinandtonics, and add hashtag #showusyourbook.

Once you’ve done that, voila! You’re entered! We’ll be choosing a winner at random on November 15, 2015 and announcing on Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook. This giveaway is open internationally!

If you haven’t ordered your copy yet, now is a great time to do it. It looks like it’s only ~$14 on Amazon right now, which is a fantastic deal. It will also be available from a huge number of other retailers in the U.S. and internationally on November 3rd; Amazon just happens to be the only one I know is already shipping right now.

It’s an amazing book; we’re really proud of it, and we can’t wait for all of you to read it and tell us what you think!

The post Lots of Updates, Featuring Some (Surprise!) Book News & Giveaways Galore appeared first on Skin & Tonics : Skincare Guides & Product Reviews.

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The Beginner’s Guide To Retinol & Retinoids: How To Prevent Dry, Flaky Side-Effects

As a product formulator and practicing esthetician with over 30 years of experience, I consider myself well-versed in retinol and retinoids. Fun fact: I personally knew one of the dermatologists who was instrumental in getting this ingredient FDA approved as the first topical preventative aging product (read the full story of when I met this dermatologist. It’s a good one). So without further ado, keep reading to learn my expert tips for getting maximum benefits from a topical vitamin A product, whether it’s a prescription form (retinoid) or in an over-the-counter version (retinol).

First things first. In an ever-changing world of skincare advancements related to preventing and reversing the appearance of lines, wrinkles, indented acne scars, large pores, and brown spots, there are TWO facts that have remained constant for the past 30+ years.

  • Fact #1: Certain types of vitamin A, the ingredient behind retinol and prescription retinoids, can reverse visible signs of aging. Using a topical product containing these ingredients can increase cell thickness, affect gene expression, thin the stratum corneum, and increase the production of collagen. With continued use, vitamin A can slowly improve the skin’s appearance (NCBI Study). It smoothes skin texture by lessening visible wrinkles, lines, indented acne scars, large pores, and brown spots. Simply put, this ingredient can deliver smoothing and resurfacing results. Thus, it can help the skin mature in a more desirable way.
  • Fact #2: You must take special care of your skin to manage and prevent potential side effects such as dryness and irritation (especially if you’re using a prescription formula). In the early ’90s when tretinoin first became FDA-approved for treating sun damage, not much was known about controlling its side effects. If misused, the effects were often intolerable. I once had a client who was using a prescription retinoid improperly. She smiled, and in front of my very eyes, areas of her face cracked and started to bleed. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing! These days, the side effects of retinol and retinoids are completely manageable (NCBI Study). All you need to do is take special care of your skin by following my expert tips.

The Most Common Types of Vitamin A Ingredients

1. Retinoid (Tretinoin)

This ingredient is derived from vitamin A and is only available in prescription formulas (with the exception of Adapalene, or Differin, which is now sold without a prescription). When applied to the skin, it converts directly to retinoic acid. It then binds to cell receptors and activates the cell maturation process in the skin. Brand names include Retin A, Retin-A Micro, and Renova.

2. Retinol

This is an ingredient found in non-prescription formulas. When applied (assuming it’s an encapsulated, stable, and well-formulated product), it converts slowly to retinoic acid. It’s time-released, which means it’s delivered into the skin gradually, over a period of hours, instead of all at once like retinoids are. Because of this, retinol users often experience less irritation than retinoid users. Therefore, retinol is ideal for sensitive, reactive skin types, as well as those with less sun damage. Despite being a gentler option, retinol is still effective and can deliver the same results as a prescription with long-term use.

Note: Biochemically, retinoids and retinol perform the same function, which means you’ll get results regardless of which one you choose to use. Results may take a little longer to achieve with retinol-based products, but that’s exactly what is needed for vitamin A newbies and people with sensitive skin types.

3. Retinyl Palmitate

This is a storage form of vitamin A. It’s a blend of pure retinol and palmitic acid, and it’s much weaker than retinol. The process of retinyl palmitate converting to retinoic acid is considerably more complex, and the amount that ends up reaching the cellular receptor is very small. It simply cannot compare to the efficacy of pure retinol. When used in a formula, this ingredient can improve the chemical stability of retinol and act as an emollient and antioxidant, but you typically shouldn’t count on it to deliver the same smoothing and brightening results as retinol. Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Linoleate, and Retinyl Propionate are in this same category.

4. Retinaldehyde

This is a stable precursor to retinoic acid. When it’s stable and encapsulated, it can convert slowly within the skin to retinoic acid just like retinol.

It’s important to note that just because a product contains one of the vitamin A ingredients listed above does NOT mean it will necessarily deliver results. You must consider how the formula is made, which percentage is used, how it’s delivered into the skin, and how stable it is. You’ll usually have to do a bit of research to find all of this out. If a brand is not readily sharing this information, I consider it a red flag, because it could be representative of the product’s lack of true efficacy. Any good formulator knows this is very important information to share with their customers; they should share their product stats proudly. (Read four things to look for when choosing a retinol product.)

How To Decide if You Should Use Retinol or Get a Prescription Retinoid From Your Doctor

I start all of my clients on retinol, regardless of how much sun damage they have. Here are some guidelines for making this decision for yourself.

 Start Using a Prescription Retinoid if You’re…

  • NOT sensitive at all. If you are sensitive, there’s no need to read this section, as a prescription retinoid is not best for you. (Most people have a certain degree of skin sensitivity, which is why I suggest using retinol first. If you fit the following conditions, though, you can eventually transition to using a prescription retinoid.)
  • Someone who’s over the age of 35 with a long history of sun damage. You may feel like your skin shows more visible signs of aging than other people your age.
  • Someone who, regardless of age, has pitted, indented acne scars from your younger years.
  • Someone who, regardless of age, has melasma from the sun, heat, pregnancy, or hormones. You’ll benefit from something stronger to work deeper and faster. Again though, if you have sensitive skin, it’s best to start with retinol.

Skip a Prescription Retinoid and Use Retinol if You’re….

  • Someone who, regardless of age, has thin, dry, and/or sensitive skin. This includes anyone who has rosacea, a history of eczema, or simply an easily-irritated skin type. These skin types may never adjust to a prescription retinoid due to the delicate protective barrier that’s easily compromised.
  • Someone under the age of 35 with no major acne issues who is already using vitamin A to prevent wrinkles, lighten discoloration, reduce pore size, and smooth skin texture. Sticking with retinol and occasional chemical peels is perfect because you’re already getting ahead of the aging process. There’s not as much repair and reversal work to be done in those younger than 35.

When to Start Using Retinol to Prevent Signs of Aging

Assuming that blemishes are not your main concern, I generally recommend starting to use retinol between the ages of 26 and 30. The exact age will depend on your specific skin type, although I don’t suggest starting it before 26. There are two reasons for this. The first is that many people who are younger than 26 are still dealing with breakouts. Despite what you may have heard, retinol or retinoids do NOT help cystic or pustular acne. However, prescription retinoids CAN be effective for managing closed comedones. I discuss this more in detail below.

The second reason is that vitamin A speeds up the skin’s metabolism, which begins to slow in your early 30s. When you’re younger, your skin is already very metabolically active. Using retinol or retinoids too early might backfire and stir up breakouts, rashes, and more. Basically, it could disrupt the skin’s natural balance.

What to Know Before Using Retinol or a Prescription Retinoid

Avoid Using Retinol or Prescription Retinoids While Pregnant

Of course, it’s always best to consult with your doctor. In my experience, though, most advise against using vitamin A until after giving birth due to potential risks. I have not personally come across any reported evidence of either topical retinol or retinoids causing harm, but doctors are extra cautious with expecting mothers, and understandably so.

Retinol Can Be Used During the Summer as Long as You’re Serious about Sun Protection

Retinol and retinoid products deliver the best results when used two to five nights a week year-round. Using it on and off can slow progress, so it’s important to commit to using it consistently, even during the summer months. As long as you’re someone who practices sun safety and is very conscientious about preventing suntans and sunburns, then you should be just fine.

However, if you are someone who enjoys tanning or someone who hasn’t yet mastered the art of sun protection, I would suggest discontinuing your retinol or retinoid seven days before intense outdoor sun exposure. Start it back up again a week after you’ve been in the sun—assuming you don’t have a sunburn, of course. While this will slow down results, it’s super important to prevent skin inflammation and irritation.

You’ll See Better and Faster Results If You Use Exfoliating Acids in Your Routine, Too

When dry, dead cells are regularly removed from the skin’s surface, vitamin A is more easily absorbed. You’ll definitely want to start using an exfoliating acid serum, but more on that later.

Retinol and Retinoids Don’t Deliver Visible Results Quickly, so You Must Be Patient

Unlike an exfoliating acid peel that delivers immediate results, vitamin A works incredibly slowly to create change in the skin. I generally tell my clients that they won’t start seeing improved textural changes for two to four months. With continued use, you’ll see more and more positive changes. Do not give up. Stick with it!

You’re Not Going to Get Anti-Acne Benefits With Retinol. You Might with a Prescription Retinoid, But Only For Certain Types of Breakouts

Yes, prescription retinoids like Retin-A were, in fact, originally developed in the ’70s for treating acne. It wasn’t actually discovered until later that the ingredient also helped with wrinkles. That explains why, for a long time, retinoids had the reputation of being a go-to for acne. The truth is, they’re not for everyone. All skin is different and so are the type of breakouts that each person experiences. (This explains why you may hear about a product working like magic for one person and then making another person’s breakouts worse!)

The type of acne prescription retinoids work best for is comedonal acne. This is the type that appears as whiteheads, blackheads, closed comedones, and clogged, non-inflamed bumps. Retinoids restore the organization of cells through cellular turnover. This, in turn, prevents cells from getting trapped and blocked in the pore-lining which in turn, prevents those little non-infected bumps from forming.

Prescription retinoids do not work well for sore, inflamed pustular acne or cysts. In fact, when someone has infected pustular and cystic acne, retinoids may actually make them worse. It’s far better to use products that have more proven breakout-fighting benefits, such as salicylic acid, tea tree, beta-glucan, niacinamide, manuka, sulfur, lactic acid, and benzoyl peroxide. (On that note, beware of skincare brands that claim their retinol product can treat acne AND wrinkles as a one-stop-shop. This is false and anyone sharing this is simply not informed of how retinol really works. Trust me on this!)

As for retinol, since it contains a lesser dose of vitamin A, it doesn’t work as hard as retinoids do to clear clogged bumps. If breakouts are your main concern, I usually advise focusing on clearing blemishes first. Once the skin is clear, you can start using a retinol product to prevent the visible signs of aging. However, there is now a 1% Differin (adapalene) gel retinoid formula available without a prescription. It’s worth adding to your routine to see if it alleviates breakouts.

One more note on retinol and breakouts—I suggest using an exfoliating acid serum that contains salicylic acid on nights you’re not using the retinol to increase vitamin A’s efficacy. I’ll discuss this more at length in a bit. I recommend the Renée Rouleau BHA Clarifying Serum to all of my clients, as well as the Zit Care Kit for making all kinds of blemishes disappear quickly.

It’s Best to Avoid Oil-Based Retinol Formulas If You’re Prone to Clogged Pores

Some retinol formulas are kept stable in a blend of pure oils. This gives them a somewhat greasy feel on the skin. While dry skin types can always benefit from oil saturation, oily and breakout-prone skin types should avoid these types of formulas. (After all, the underlying cause of blemishes is oil—oil breeds bacteria and bacteria lead to blemishes.) Choose your formulas wisely!

If You Have a History of Eczema, You Should Use Retinol—Not a Prescription Retinoid

Vitamin A is very active and breaks down the skin’s protective moisture barrier through its aggressive cellular turnover process (basically, it causes dryness). That explains why people who have eczema-prone skin find that retinoids can cause flare-ups. In this case, it’s best to only use retinol.

Even If You Only Apply a Prescription Retinoid to One Area of Your Face, It Can Affect Your Entire Face

Some people apply prescription retinoids strategically in an effort to target a specific area. For example, some people apply it only around their eye area. They think this will help eye-area wrinkles while sparing the rest of their face from dryness. In reality, the ingredient travels underneath the skin. Even if you apply a retinoid strategically, it will work everywhere, which means you can experience dryness everywhere.

A Step-By-Step Guide to Using Retinol

As I said before if you’re new to using vitamin A, I suggest starting with a non-prescription version such as retinol. To reiterate, the reason is that you want to introduce vitamin A slowly. Most people who start with a prescription (without proper usage instruction) eventually give up because their skin becomes too dry and irritated. If you have a prescription and haven’t been able to use it successfully, consider putting that on hold for now. Start with non-prescription retinol first to introduce it to your skin gradually. Advanced Resurfacing Serum is the retinol product that I personally use. It’s also the one I recommend to my clients. The formula is effective because it combines stable retinol AND skin-firming peptides that help prevent loss of tone.

1. Start by Using Your Retinol Product 2 Nights on, and 1 Night Off

Repeat this throughout the week. For best results, you must use retinol consistently (and often!). Your skin has other needs, though, so you don’t want to use it every single night. Plus, using it too often could prove too much for your skin, since it’s such a biologically active ingredient.

Following the two nights on, one night off rule will result in four nights a week. If you are over 40 with a history of sun damage and your skin isn’t overly sensitive, you can use it four to five nights a week. However, no one should use it for more than five nights a week. This can eventually result in increased sensitivity and a waxy and unnatural appearance.

On the other hand, if you’re under 40 and your skin is fairly sensitive, you might start by using it only twice a week. Then after two months, you can work up to using it three nights a week. Eventually, work up to four nights a week. When in doubt, start slow and increase as you go along. If you’re experiencing dryness or irritation, you’re either using too much or using it too often. This is a sure sign that you should cut back. Remember: using retinol or retinoids successfully is a marathon, not a sprint.

2. Avoid Applying Moisturizer Immediately After Applying Retinol

Using a cream or lotion right after applying retinol may dilute it slightly. It’s best to let it absorb for 20 minutes. Or, you can use a retinol serum that has a lotion-like texture. This can offer hydrating and protective benefits, thus skipping the need for moisturizer altogether.

3. Maximize Results and Minimize Potential Side-Effects By Using an Exfoliating Acid Serum on Opposite Nights

This is really important. Retinol works to encourage dull, sun-damaged skin cells to rise to the surface for easy removal. Using a gentle, alcohol-free exfoliating acid serum once or twice a week (such as one with glycolic, lactic, salicylic, or mandelic acid) will accelerate these cells’ removal. Vitamin A can then absorb deeper into the skin to perform its best. Using both will reveal a smoother, more even-toned texture.

A lot of people use exfoliating toners that contain acids. They often ask me where they should plug that into a retinol or retinoid routine. I never suggest that my clients exfoliate every day, so I don’t recommend using an acid-based toner every morning and night. This is regardless of whether or not you’re using any vitamin A products. If you want to use an exfoliating toner, I would suggest using it on the nights that you use the retinol or retinoid. It can act as a pre-treatment/primer to allow the vitamin A ingredient to absorb deeper into the skin.

Did you know that acids actually help correct dryness? When people experience surface dryness (due to age, drying products, airplane travel, etc), their first instinct is to apply face oil or a heavy moisturizer. This is helpful for pushing moisture into the top layers of the skin, but the dry, expired cells want to (and desperately need to) come off. Over-moisturizing may interfere with and slow down cell turnover. Regularly using exfoliating acids is like saying “out with the old and in with the new” to your skin. This is why top dermatologists and skincare professionals recommend acids so widely.

4. Once a Week, Skip the Exfoliating Acid or Retinol and Use a Hydrating Serum Containing Antioxidants, Epidermal Growth Factors, or Peptides

Your skin requires a variety of ingredients to age healthily. Therefore, you don’t want to constantly stay in exfoliation/cell turnover mode by only using acids and retinol. It’s just like your exercise routine. When working out, it’s best to alternate between various types of exercise, so you’re getting a little bit of everything. Your skin appreciates the same variety. The Renée Rouleau Firm + Repair Overnight Serum is the one I often suggest to my clients.

5. To Boost Results, Get a Professional Chemical Peel or Give Yourself One at Home

Once you’ve been on your new retinol routine for two months, it’s good to kick it up a notch. Try introducing your skin to a chemical peel—especially if you’re someone who has large pores, wrinkles, and discoloration from sun damage. A peel is essentially a stronger version of retinol. It’s intensifying your skin’s collagen-boosting activity to encourage faster smoothing results. Synergistically, they both support one another in the quest for smoother, more even-toned skin.

There are many types of peels, so you’ll want to consult with a trusted skincare professional to find out which type and what frequency is best for your skin. I generally recommend that clients get light to medium chemical peels (ones that make your skin shed for a few days after) six to eight times a year. You can get lighter peels every other month.

The Renée Rouleau Triple Berry Smoothing Peel is great to use three to four times a month. There are no harsh side effects, only beautiful results to increase the skin-smoothing benefits of retinol. You can also give yourself a DIY chemical peel at home if you happen to have a tube of a prescription retinoid lying around.

6. If You Think You Want to Start Using a Prescription Retinoid, Introduce It Slowly After 6 Months

Of course, you’ll have to consult with a doctor about this. There are so many different kinds, but your doctor can suggest what’s best for you and your specific skin goals. You should start with the lowest strength.

How to Introduce a Prescription Retinoid Into Your Routine

Weeks 1-4: Substitute Your Retinol Serum with a Prescription Retinoid One Night Per Week

After cleansing, immediately apply an alcohol-free toner. Leave it damp, then apply a thin layer of a lightweight moisturizer to the skin before applying your retinoid. The moisturizer cannot be heavy or greasy at all. Wait for five minutes and apply a pea-sized amount of the prescription to the entire face. (I recommend treating the neck and chest with retinoids, too. Use an extra pea-sized amount for this area as well.) Let dry for 20 minutes and follow with another application of moisturizer. This time, you can use your normal moisturizer. Ideally, use one that keeps the skin’s moisture barrier intact and sensitivity to a minimum. The Renée Rouleau Phytolipid Comfort Creme is a great option for new retinoid users.

Note: There has been much discussion in years past about whether or not using a moisturizer underneath vitamin A affects its performance. Most believe that it does not interfere with penetration. Instead, the right moisturizer can keep the moisture barrier intact to prevent dryness. This is truly the secret to making a prescription tolerable. I always recommend the Renée Rouleau Sheer Moisture Lotion to my clients due to its light texture and stable antioxidants. Retinoids can cause “micro wounding” in the skin, and antioxidants help stop the resulting inflammatory response. This makes Sheer Moisture a perfect companion to prescription formulas.

Weeks 4-10: Repeat the Above Process But Now Substitute Your Retinol Serum with a Prescription Retinoid Two Nights Per Week

Think of your prescription retinoid as a workout for your skin. You don’t want to lift the heaviest weights on day one. Instead, you want to take it slow and gradually build up to it over time.

Weeks 10+: Repeat the Above Process But Now Substitute Your Retinol Serum with a Prescription Retinoid Three Nights Per Week

For most people, I suggest sticking with this routine for the long run. You’ll alternate nights between your original retinol serum (eventually you can drop this), a retinoid, an exfoliating acid serum, and a hydrating serum. You’ll use your prescription retinoid three nights a week while giving your skin an amazing variety of other active ingredients. They’ll all work synergistically to improve the look of your brown spots, wrinkles, and large pores.

If you have very sun-damaged skin, you may want to increase the prescription retinoid to four nights a week after six months. Also, consider upgrading to a new one with a stronger percentage. I do, however, discourage people from getting too excited and using it too frequently. Over time, this can cause the skin to appear tight, shiny, and waxy, almost like a plastic Barbie doll. I can spot someone who is overusing prescription retinoids a mile away, and it’s not a great look. It just doesn’t look natural.

The Bottom Line

I’ve seen the results retinol and retinoids can provide on so many of my clients’ faces in the past 30 years of my career. While I’m super proud of the retinol formula I created, there are other great ones out there, too. You just have to do your due diligence since it’s a tricky ingredient with which to work, and not all formulators know how to make the best products.

I’ll leave you with one last thought. As I mentioned previously, using a retinol or retinoid is a marathon, not a sprint. It can take a while to see results, meaning you won’t get immediate gratification. To truly reap its benefits, without incurring dryness or irritation, deliver a slow drip of it to the skin. I recommend using it regularly for the rest of your life…or until a better anti-aging product takes its place! And if that’s the case, I’ll be sure to let you know. For now, head on down Retinol Road.

Next, find out how to adjust your skincare routine when using a prescription retinoid.

The post The Beginner’s Guide To Retinol & Retinoids: How To Prevent Dry, Flaky Side-Effects appeared first on Expert Skin Advice from Renee Rouleau.

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